Andrew Jefford

Penfolds

Jefford on Monday: He clipped through London this September to show off the company’s 2015 releases around a month before they were officially unveiled — in Shanghai.  More of those…

Petit Manseng grapes in Virginia

Jefford on Monday I was on best behaviour, of course, but the windiest Atlantic hurricane since Igor in 2010 would have thrown cars around and squashed the homes of those…

Pinot Noir grapes in Burgundy

​Jefford on Monday: The concept of vintage fidelity is an intriguing one. Is it an absolute or a relative ideal? Some see it as a kind of annex to terroir:…

Wine shop in China

I think it’s inevitable — given that China’s population is more than four times larger than that of the USA; given that most Chinese drinkers regard wine as health-bringing; given…

Raventos harvest

My last harvesting experience was with Languedoc Cinsault: big, blobby bunches that had contrived to grow themselves tightly around both tendrils and training wires. Within minutes, you had sticky hands…

Raventos i Blanc

Raventos i Blanc, L’Hereu 2012 Rating: 17.5/20pts, 91/100pts Using Macabeu as ‘the structural base’, L’Hereu has classic Catalan scents of straw and dry grass freshened with a little green plum.…

Jefford Bichot harvest, Burgundy

La Moutonne, Chablis Grand Cru, Long-Depaquit 2013 93 pts From just 2.24 ha in Vaudésir plus a 0.11 ha nibble of Les Preuses, this lieux-dit monopole among the Grand Crus…

DAWA vice-chair: Andrew Jefford

Writing wine tasting notes that carry practical relevance and literary value is a tricky business, as explained in the column Jefford on Monday: Tasting notes – the shame of the…

Brandstatt

I've never, alas, tasted an Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Eisele Vineyard. My newly acquired enthusiasm for great Napa Cabernet, though, suggests that I'd like it a lot.…

Montrose sign

Scores for wines are philosophically untenable, aesthetically noxious – but have great practical value. Wine scores will, therefore, be with us for as long as human beings drink wine. A…

De wet, Wetshof, south africa

With Chardonnay accounting for 75% per cent of production, De Wetshof is definitely a specialist winery. It’s sited in the inland region of Robertson, so at first glance this cool…

Vines in volcanic debris

The most significant revolution I’ve seen in the wine world over the last quarter century has nothing to do with micro-oxygenation, 100-point scores or screwcaps.

Bushvine Grenache, Roussillon

It’s a classic start: anthropology student turns cellar-rat, and goes tank-cleaning his way around France, Hungary, Romania and South Africa.  While helping out a little later with the winemaking at…

Pic St Loup

Producers of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier might dissent, but I feel that this has to be at least part of any definition of fine wine.  All of Europe’s greatest reds…

Chardonnay, Cote de Nuits

Assuming that the region comes through the next 70 days of meteorological risk unscathed, then 2015 will be – as 2014 was – a harvest of satisfyingly ‘normal’ girth.  Flowering…

Punset vineyards, Barbaresco, Piedmont

On and on they roll, the hills, one after another, combed to perfection, retreating grandly into the heat haze, frilled and filled out with copses of trees, threaded with pale…

Vinexpo 2015, Francois Hollande

The French government, having floundered for several years following François Hollande’s election in May 2012, has found something resembling a sense of purpose under Hollande’s second Prime Minister Manuel Valls,…

Barolo

The village of La Morra loomed over us, up on the hill. ‘I couldn’t,’ said the softly spoken former derivatives trader for Merrill Lynch in London, ‘afford to be there…

Jefford on Monday, Limoux

All that’s missing is encircling seawater. Instead, the cool Limoux shoreline is defined by altitude (no vineyard lower than 280m, and some which crest 500m), aspect (more east- and west-facing…