Andrew Jefford

DAWA vice-chair: Andrew Jefford

Writing wine tasting notes that carry practical relevance and literary value is a tricky business, as explained in the column Jefford on Monday: Tasting notes – the shame of the…

Brandstatt

I've never, alas, tasted an Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Eisele Vineyard. My newly acquired enthusiasm for great Napa Cabernet, though, suggests that I'd like it a lot.…

Montrose sign

Scores for wines are philosophically untenable, aesthetically noxious – but have great practical value. Wine scores will, therefore, be with us for as long as human beings drink wine. A…

De wet, Wetshof, south africa

With Chardonnay accounting for 75% per cent of production, De Wetshof is definitely a specialist winery. It’s sited in the inland region of Robertson, so at first glance this cool…

Vines in volcanic debris

The most significant revolution I’ve seen in the wine world over the last quarter century has nothing to do with micro-oxygenation, 100-point scores or screwcaps.

Bushvine Grenache, Roussillon

It’s a classic start: anthropology student turns cellar-rat, and goes tank-cleaning his way around France, Hungary, Romania and South Africa.  While helping out a little later with the winemaking at…

Pic St Loup

Producers of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier might dissent, but I feel that this has to be at least part of any definition of fine wine.  All of Europe’s greatest reds…

Chardonnay, Cote de Nuits

Assuming that the region comes through the next 70 days of meteorological risk unscathed, then 2015 will be – as 2014 was – a harvest of satisfyingly ‘normal’ girth.  Flowering…

Punset vineyards, Barbaresco, Piedmont

On and on they roll, the hills, one after another, combed to perfection, retreating grandly into the heat haze, frilled and filled out with copses of trees, threaded with pale…

Vinexpo 2015, Francois Hollande

The French government, having floundered for several years following François Hollande’s election in May 2012, has found something resembling a sense of purpose under Hollande’s second Prime Minister Manuel Valls,…

Barolo

The village of La Morra loomed over us, up on the hill. ‘I couldn’t,’ said the softly spoken former derivatives trader for Merrill Lynch in London, ‘afford to be there…

Jefford on Monday, Limoux

All that’s missing is encircling seawater. Instead, the cool Limoux shoreline is defined by altitude (no vineyard lower than 280m, and some which crest 500m), aspect (more east- and west-facing…

It was in the ancient village of Apricale – like many in the Ligurian mountains, a kind of oozing honeycomb of stone – that I first came across the delicious…

How fit is your palate? And how do you maintain and train it? At least half of the readers of this column, I’d guess, work with wine in one way…

Something is changing. The evidence is probably lying quietly in cellars around the world. Here, though, is a little homage to Catalonia, since that was where I recently saw it…

Is there a conflict between brand and terroir? Can you express terroir in a brand without using appellation as a primary focus? Here’s a story.

It didn’t seem to attract much notice at the time, but the Casa do Douro was finally declared bankrupt and wound up at the end of 2014, with debts of…

The man whose name has been synonymous with Pétrus for more than 40 years has, in fact, not worked at the estate since 2011. But that doesn’t mean he hasn’t…

Australia’s resource boom may be drawing to a close, but there is no stopping the deep-cast mining of wine statistics and data at the University of Adelaide’s Wine Economics Research…

Most great terroirs, I’ve come round to believing, can produce different sorts of compelling wine. A distinguished site is pure potential – but there are usually several possibilities, not just…