Steven Spurrier February '10 Column
In November, Pierre-Henry Gagey, who joined Louis Jadot in 1985 and took over when his father, André, retired in 1992 after 30 years at the helm, gave a tasting for 24 tasters, including Jacques Lardière, winemaker since 1970, to celebrate the firm’s 150th anniversary. Starting with the reds, as is customary in Burgundy, he said that he had chosen one wine from each of the 15 decades of the company’s existence – not necessarily the best wine from the best vintage, but wines he and Lardière really liked – poured directly after opening with no decanting. The immediate impact followed by the fascinating development in the glass, especially for the last, oldest five wines, was breathtaking.