BEVERLEY BLANNING MW looks for the best way to keep an open bottle fresh, as she tests a range of stoppers

Normally, a wine drinker only needs to think about the temperature for serving,

which glasses to use and whether or not to decant, all of which are matters of

personal preference.

But

this simple state of affairs becomes more complicated if the bottle you have

opened remains unfinished – especially if it’s one worth keeping.

In

fact, the chemistry involved is pretty straightforward: oxygen is the single

culprit for a wine’s deterioration after opening. Beneficial in small doses –

or even large ones for some wines – oxygen will progressively have a

deleterious effect on quality.


So, is there a single best way to preserve wine? To help me answer this,

Decanter sent me six bottles of three different wines to test with a range of

stoppers. Many products claim to keep wine fresh, but there are only two ways

to do this. The most basic method is to put something in the neck of the bottle

to prevent fresh oxygen getting into the wine. But this does nothing to prevent

the oxygen already in the bottle from oxidising the wine, so the emptier the

bottle, the less effective this will be. More complex innovations aim to remove

as much oxygen as possible from the bottle before sealing it.

This is

done either via vacuum or by adding inert gas to displace the oxygen and form a

protective blanket over the surface of the wine. There are several different

vacuum products on the market. Cheap and easy to use, they are a one-off

purchase. The disadvantages are that it will never be possible to remove all

the oxygen in the bottle and, in any case, the effectiveness of a vacuum must

be balanced against the harmful effect of submitting a wine to the violence of

the vacuum process. If a wine is ‘over-vacuumed’, its desirable volatile aromas

are literally sucked out.


One would imagine that using inert gas should give a better result, as this is

often used in wineries to protect wine during the winemaking process. This is a

more expensive option, but has the advantage that it can be used in any container

(such as a decanter).

For the

experiment I chose three vacuum-style stoppers and two inert gas systems, along

with the bottle’s original stopper. Taking three contrasting wines, I opened

six bottles of each, tasted them to ensure they were all consistent, recorded

my notes, and then left them open for an hour to simulate a drinking

environment.

The wines were each sealed with a different closure before being opened again 24

hours later, retasted, left open for a further hour, and then resealed. This

process was repeated on 48, 72 and 96 hours.

The

wines

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2007 (13% abv, screwcap)

Bouchard Pere et Fils Fleurie, Beaujolais, France 2006 (13% abv, agglomerate cork)

Clos de los Siete, Mendoza, Argentina 2006 (15% abv, natural cork)

The

stoppers

Vacuum

stoppers
: ‘Menu’ Vacuum, Gard’Vin On/Off, Vacuvin

Gas

stoppers:
Private

Preserve, Pek Preservino

The

results

Original

closures

It was

impossible to say if any of the wine’s original stopper was superior as, in

terms of how the wines developed, more seemed to depend on the wine than the

closure. But it’s fair to say that all three original closures performed less

well than the manufactured stoppers, and for wines where preservation of the

original aroma is key, it’s important to use a stopper that removes oxygen.

Sauvignon Blanc: After 24 hours there were clear and startling differences in

the aromatic profiles of the six Sauvignon Blancs. Most noticeable were the

variations in the wine’s pungent, grassy aromas, which were most pronounced on

the bottle resealed with the original screwcap, and almost absent from bottles

sealed with gas. The latter had more delicate and floral aromatics. The vacuum sealed

wines also had these floral aromas, but seemed to have developed more of green

pungency than the gas preservers. The Sauvignon Blancs were pleasantly

drinkable after a day, though the commercial stoppers all prolonged the

freshness of the wine more effectively than the bottle’s original screwcap.


The third and fourth day showed progressive deterioration of the wine. All but

the screwcapped wine remained drinkable, but the bottle sealed with the Private

Preserve gas cylinder remained much fresher than any of the others.

Beaujolais:

This crisp, lightweight wine with crunchy fruit was acceptable (even improved)

after a day’s storage under all the alternatives, though the bottle resealed

with the cork was less fresh than the others. Although the fruit was still

vibrant, it seemed rounder and softer after 48 hours.


The best wines appeared to be those sealed with the Vacuvin and Private

Preserve, and this was still the case into the third day.

By the

fourth day, they were all tiring.

Argentinian

blend
: This big, densely coloured wine is high in alcohol and oak tannins. When

first opened, its aromas ranged through oak, violets, coconut, black cherry,

blackcurrants and spice. Although the wine tasted perfectly fine from all of

the stoppered bottles on day two, it never regained the complexity of aroma or

flavour of the first day.

The

Private Preserve and Gard’Vin preserved the flavour and freshness best.

Conclusion:

This

limited trial shows that while there are significant differences in the

stoppers’ performance, all gave better results than merely sticking the cork

back in the bottle or resealing it with its original screwcap. And while it’s

hard to come to any firm conclusions on which option (vacuum or gas) works best

for which wines, the Private Preserve gas cylinder came out as the best way to

keep our three types of wine fresher for longer.

Written by Beverley Blanning MW