2007 red Burgundy
Fragrant wines with light tannins and fresh, accessible fruit, though styles vary hugely as a result of the erratic, labour-intensive vintage.
*Vintage guide updated January 2017
While the warmest April in 50 years got the vintage off to a good and early start, from May to August it was cool and dreary. There were rainy spells and virtually no sunshine, and mildew and grey rot were constant threats (though less so than in Bordeaux in the same year). Growers had to apply effort, vigilance and extra treatment in the vineyards, while the grapes struggled to develop maturity.
Salvation arrived with a warm late August and a fresh, sunny September. Skins ripened and sugar levels soared, while drying north winds put the brakes on rot. The forecast late harvest became an early one, though there was huge variation in picking dates. In Beaujolais, picking began early and was over by the beginning of September.
Hard-graft continued in the cellar, the elimination of unripe and unhealthy grapes reducing yields by around 20%.
Despite wide variations in style (reflecting terroir and grower decisions regarding picking dates, stringency of sorting, and mildew control) the result is wines with charm rather than structure. They are fragrant, with light tannins and fresh, accessible fruit. The long, cool growing season has preserved Pinot Noir’s floral character well and let the freshness of the fruit come through.
Grand cru-studded Côte de Nuits has the edge: light, elegant Gevrey-Chambertins and appealingly perfumed Morey-St-Denis stand out, while Nuits-St-George 2007s are translucent, pure, with juicy red fruit. From the Côte de Beaune Chassagne-Montrachet and Santanay are sweet, juicy with smooth tannins, while Pommard is supple and minerally. Volnays are sensual and floaty; Beaunes ripe and well-structured. Ageing potential is limited but expect enjoyable drinking for up to 10 years for the best wines.
Pierre Damoy (Chambertin-Clos de Bèze), Arnand Rousseau, Louis Jadot (Gevrey-Chambertin), Comte Liger-Belair (La Romanée), Henri Gouges (Nuits-St-Georges), Comte Georges de Vogüé (Chambolle-Musigny), Nicolas Rossignol-Jeanniard (Volnay), Pierre Damoy (Chambertin), Domaine Josepth Voillot (Pommard)