Decanter experts gives their verdict, tasting notes and drinking windows on Volnay premier cru 2010.

Volnay premier cru 2010

The 2010s showed purity and austerity in our panel tasting, but some producers strugged to achieve full ripeness. While not a great vintage, our panel said it’s a good one to buy – but with care. See the top 13 Volnay premier cru 2010s here…

Volnay has a reputation for elegance, finesse and fragrance, but wines from the Pommard side can be burly. Much depends on the grower, says Stephen Brook

Volnay is richly endowed in premiers crus, which, in terms of hectares under vine, outnumber the village vineyards. Most of the highly regarded premiers crus lie on the slopes above the main road. The vineyards visible around the village are all premiers crus. But about half the premiers lie below the road on flatter soil. Those close to Pommard, such as Frémiets and Chanlin, tend to be more tannic and even rugged. Those hugging, or even within, the village tend to be monopoles owned by the leading producers, while most of the finest premiers crus lie on the most southerly slopes towards Meursault, and include Clos des Chênes, Taillepieds and Cailleret. Champans, the most central of the premiers, is also esteemed.

As always in Burgundy, much depends on individual producers. Volnay is fortunate here. Properties such as Lafarge, Marquis d’Angerville, Pousse d’Or, de Montille, Henri Boillot and, in recent years, Nicolas Rossignol are renowned for consistency as well as quality. Inevitably they differ in approach. Lafarge farms biodynamically and promotes purity of fruit; at the other end of the spectrum, Pousse d’Or (which changed hands in 1997) delivers darker, more modern-style wines. Their monopoles are also noteworthy, although they are mostly small: Pousse d’Or alone owns three, of which the best is Clos de la Bousse d’Or; Lafarge owns Clos du Château des Ducs, Angerville the Clos des Ducs, and Clerget owns Clos de Verseuil. Fortunately the best-known premiers crus are large sites and the wines more widely available.