Canadian Icewine to hit half million dollars: but will it last? December 11, 2006
Tony Aspler, and Adam Lechmere
If you're stuck for a gift for your beloved this Christmas, you might splash out on a bottle of Royal DeMaria Chardonnay Icewine – though at €500 a centilitre it might be beyond all but the most fervent aficionados.
The 2000 vintage comes in half bottles (37.5cl), currently retailing at CAN$30,000 (€20,000) each – which broken down works out at about seven times the price of a 100ml bottle of Chanel No 5.
And in a few months time that may seem cheap. Owner Joseph DeMaria is so confident of his skills at separating very rich people from their cash that he expects to raise the price to half a million dollars (€330,000) per bottle.
'As usual I increase the price point as the sales increase. Although the 2000 Chardonnay Icewine is at CAN$30,000 now, I can guarantee that by the last bottle, it will have a price tag of CAN$500,000.'
DeMaria said he in the process of closing another three sales, 'two of the to the same area as the first and the other to Japan.' He added, 'You can appreciate that the client asked not to be identified.'
According to Charlene Stephenson, director of sales and marketing for the Niagara winery, the first buyer lives in New York City but will be taking the bottle 'overseas.'
While there is no ageability history for Chardonnay Icewine, a product first made by Royal de Maria, most Canadian Rieslings – the most common grape for Icewine – will last for 15 years if well cellared.
But experts are doubtful as to the staying power of a Chardonnay Icewine, as the grape, unlike Riesling, does not have the acidity necessary for ageing.
Freddy Price, an expert on German Eiswein, said that Eiswein – the German or Austrian original version of Icewine – was normally drunk within two or three years.
'It doesn't really improve in quality like some of the other great sweet wines. It loses some of its freshness and acid on the attack.' But he agreed some of the best Riesling Icewines could last 30-40 years.
He suggested €200-300 would be the maximum price one should pay for a young bottle from a top German producer like Dr Loosen. He also said he had 'never heard' of Icewine made from Chardonnay.
The 2006 harvest of Ontario Icewine began on last Friday (8 December) at Henry of Pelham Family Estate, when the temperature dropped to minus 8 degrees Centigrade, the temperature required for grapes to freeze solid.
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This must be one of the most cynical stories of the wine-growing community that has been published in years. Canadian Ice-wine is at the best an amusement and in my experience does not match the German standard for freshness and complexity. But then this is not a wine made for drinkers it is attempting to exploit the label collectors and from that group the people with so much money that they believe that the only sign of quality is the price paid. Now somehow I would be happier about this story if the proceeds from this sale was to support a good producer whose other wines were delicious and moderately priced but that would be a fantasy would it not? Laurence Measey, Leamington Spa, UK
I wonder why Mr. Aspler continues to act as publicist for Mr. de Maria as this story is nothing but a blatent attempt for publicity. I for one would love to see an actual invoice or cancelled cheque for payment of a single bottle. All we hear about is unnamed "foreign buyers" and that the wine will be going "over seas". Anyone paying $30,000 Cdn for a 1/2 bottle of Chardonnay icewine has lost the capacity to reason. Paul Wilk, Toronto, Canada
Has the reporter taken the trouble to examine any paid bills for this wine at CAN$30,000? Does he realize that anyone can 'guarantee' any price at all for the last bottle of anything—but that guaranteeing the price is somewhat different from guaranteeing the sale? Bill Marsano, New York, USA
I expect Royal de Maria to remain the owner of most of those exceptional bottles. If they really believe these bottles are worth that much, they should value them at that price in their inventory and thus increase significantly their profit in accounting books (not their cash flow) and pay taxes accordingly... Anon
Anyone insane enough to pay $30,000 for a bottle of Icewine must be insecure and looking for a way to get some publicity. As usual when Canadian Icewines are discussed in the media it focuses on Ontario. Trust me Mr. Measey, if you had had the opportunity to taste an Icewine from British Columbia, you would not be amused but duly impressed. Climatic differences between Ontario and British Columbia account for the difference. BC does not have the stifling hot humid days and nights like Ontario but rather hot dry days and cool nights. This allows for the development of lush fruit aromas and flavours and yet retaining good acid levels. British Columbia has just finished picking Icewine grapes in what promises to be an outstanding year. Wilf Krutzmann, British Columbia
Canadian Icewine [Chardonnay]:
Price: $30000 per bottle
Robert Parker points: unknown
Taste: unknown
Popularity of variatal for Icewine: unheard of
Donnhoff Icewine [Riesling]:
Price $300 per bottle
Robert Parker points: 100/100
Taste: heavenly
Popularity of variatal for Icewine: World renown
Conclusion: draw your own.
It's not the article that is cynical, it's the comments! I live near Niagara on the Lake and I visit the wineries in the area regularly. I recently stumbled across Royal de Maria on a dark Sunday afternoon. Mrs. de Maria was friendly, engaging, and incredibly generous. While the writers who crow about the $30,000 bottle of wine might be pretentious, the winemakers and the establishment are most definitely not. You have to accept that some of the higher prices ($250/bottle) are due to rarity - it could be 10 years before conditions again allow for a pinot noir ice wine - and get over it.
Furthermore, these kinds of discussions about wine (both the article and the comments) do nothing to make the industry stronger or attract new customers. They focus too much on regionalism, competition and money. It is indeed possible to have quality wine from a number of different regions around the world. Making great wine in Ontario doesn't mean German wine is bad. Let's celebrate great wine from every country! Krystyn Tully
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This must be one of the most cynical stories of the wine-growing community that has been published in years. Canadian Ice-wine is at the best an amusement and in my experience does not match the German standard for freshness and complexity. But then this is not a wine made for drinkers it is attempting to exploit the label collectors and from that group the people with so much money that they believe that the only sign of quality is the price paid. Now somehow I would be happier about this story if the proceeds from this sale was to support a good producer whose other wines were delicious and moderately priced but that would be a fantasy would it not?