Petit Verdot on the rise in Bordeaux August 31, 2007
Jane Anson
Petit verdot, one of Bordeaux's lesser-known red grape varieties, is on the rise according to figures from the Bordeaux wine trade body (CIVB).
Statistics provided by the CIVB show an increase of over 10% of petit verdot in the region with plantings growing from 422 to 479ha (hectares) in recent years.
According to producers, this increase is mainly due to the recent run of warmer harvests.
Other less-used grapes such as the red malbec and white muscadelle are also finding their way into blends in greater quantities, particularly in Cotes de Bourg and Premieres Cotes de Blaye.
Jerome Eymas from Chateau la Rose Bellevue in Premieres Cotes de Blaye has up to 30% muscadelle in his unoaked white wine.
'The less well known appellations have started to understand that they need to stand out,' Eymas told decanter.com. 'It's not enough to have Bordeaux on the label for the lower priced wines. You need to have a real identity, and better weather has meant it is less of a gamble to try grapes like malbec or petit verdot.'
Chateau Bel Air La Royere, also in Premieres Cotes de Baye, has at least 25% malbec in its mix. Thierry Bos of Domaine de Bouillerot in the generic Bordeaux appellation area makes a blend of petit verdot, carmenère and malbec, all in equal parts.
Appellation rules in Bordeaux allow six red and seven white grape varieties, but only four are widely used (merlot and cabernet sauvignon; sauvignon blanc and semillon), as the maritime climate means more delicate grapes often have a hard time ripening.
The other allowed grapes in Bordeaux incude ugni blanc, merlot blanc, mauzac, odenc and colombard (white), and cabernet franc, petit verdot, malbec and carmenere (red).
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Do decanter.com readers know of any 100 percent varietal petit verdots that are produced in Bordeaux and are available in the United States? And that are also produced in the United States? They exist, I believe, but are hard to find.
On March 25, in my New York Times column I wrote about one that nearly qualified as a stand-alone. It was produced by Raphael, a tip-top winery on the North Fork of Long Island:
'Petit verdot, a blending grape in Bordeaux, is rarely made as a stand-alone wine anywhere. Raphael's 2004 version (5 percent merlot) is captivating. The wine ($25) is named Vino Pestato, an Italian phrase that Raphael translates as “wine made by treading.” The small berries, it says, lend themselves well “to the ancient technique of foot treading,” a method used by Raphael to make this wine today. The petit verdot is lithe, rustic, smoky, densely aromatic, spicy and intense. Just 75 cases were produced.'
Perhaps one reason Raphael took this chance is that its consultant is Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux. If you play cards, you need to go to the table with a king in hand.
Howard G. Goldberg, New York City, USA
Anthony Bell has produced Petit Verdot in Yountville.
Dennis E. Perkins, Knoxville, TN, USA
I enjoyed Jane Anson's interesting article about the recent increase in Petit Verdot plantings in Bordeaux. One thing that surprised me, however, was that Muscadelle was omitted from her list of lesser white grapes that are permitted in Bordeaux. Muscadelle is permitted in generic Bordeaux blends, and is occasionally found in the dry whites of Graves and Pessac-Leognan, and in the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac. While this list of permitted lesser varieties in generic Bordeaux may not have been intended to be comprehensive, it seemed to me that this was worth bringing to your attention anyway.
Andrew Bair, Massachusetts, USA
Portugal produces a wine with 100% Petit Verdot. It is a "Big Wine" in all the senses. The name is "DIGA ? Don´t miss it. It is a wondeful experience.
Joao Roberto, Ribeirao Preto, Brasil
In Argentina you can find the only 100% Petit Verdot wine, the name is Viña Alicia Cuarzo, is very powerfull wine, with very dark color, a lot of fruit and mineral and very long in mouth. See the web page: www.vinaalicia.com Federico Rosemberg, Buenos Aires, Argentina
For the last 10-15 years Australian wine makers have been successfully making straight varietal Petit Verdots. There are around 30 different ones available on the market here.
To the extent that the variety has its own class in the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show held each November.
P.V's come form a wide range of different climates ranging from cool to warm. The ones from cooler climates tend to display significantly more tannins and require longer maturation periods than those from the warmer climates, which are big but open wines when released.
P.V. makes the ideal accompaniment to a big steak on the BBQ.
Dan Traucki
Tomasello Winery in Hammonton, New Jersey, makes a superb 100% Petit Verdot from Atlantic County, New Jersey, estate grown grapes.
Philip Ward, New Jersey, USA
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Do decanter.com readers know of any 100 percent varietal petit verdots that are produced in Bordeaux and are available in the United States? And that are also produced in the United States? They exist, I believe, but are hard to find.
