Sustainable viticulture: 'so vague it's meaningless' September 26, 2007
Jane Anson
Sustainable winegrowing carries no guarantees of green practices in the vineyards, according to claims made in the latest issue of Decanter magazine.
The idea of sustainable winegrowing – one that limits the environmental impact of making wines – has grown enormously in popularity in recent years.
Now a report by Beverley Blanning MW in the November issue of Decanter, has found that there are so many different rules governing accreditation schemes, not just between countries but within wine regions, that it is extremely difficult to tell which are genuinely environmentally-friendly, and which are far from it.
Until fairly recently, 'green' winemaking simply meant organic, limiting the use of synthetic chemicals. But the idea of what constitutes a green wine has now evolved, and a winery wishing to show its environmental credentials has a wide range of options that tend to come under the vague umbrella term of 'sustainable viticulture'.
Recognised sustainable schemes include Agriculture Raisonée in France, Sustainable Winegrowing in New Zealand, Integrated Production of Wine in South Africa and the California Integrated Winemaking Alliance. Some are independently audited, some self-audited, and each has different criteria by which the accreditation is judged and given.
The root of the problem is that there is no one definition of the term 'sustainable', Blanning says. Depending on the scheme, the word may relate to anything that takes place within the wine company's systems, from carbon offsetting to saving water to staff training.
'The audited elements of sustainability don't necessarily relate to the contents [of the bottle]' Blanning says, citing a University of Palermo study which found that 'a producer of toxic or carcinogenic substances can obtain EMAS (Eco-management and Audit Scheme) registration in spite of its products being far from ecological.'
The same is true in California, where Sonoma vintner Chis Benziger says, 'Lots of people say “we practise sustainability” without following any rules, so they can have the illusion of sustainability without the burden.'
'Sustainable viticulture today feels like frantic collective backpedalling within the wine industry, to try to undo some of the damage of the past,' Blanning concludes.
'Sustainable Viticulture: The New Green?' by Beverley Blanning MW, is in the November issue of Decanter Magazine, out next Wednesday 3 October. Subscribe now and save 30%
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Sustainable x (read viticulture, development, etc.) or indeed sustainability are broad metaphors for a global challenge including: environmental management, social development, governance practices, risk and profitability. The responsibilty to do something about these issues to research, set objectives, agree approach and implement rests at many levels: international institutions, national governments, business, communities and individuals. The process is of a continuous nature rather than the formulation of discreet objectives. It has various characteristics including, among others, the broader temporal and spatial requirements of long term risk assessment, with consequences likely to be irreversible and geometric in progression.
The process of sustainable development is loosely confused with Corporate Social Responsibility, which term is used by both business and the Finance Industry to denote improved Corporate strategies to deal with environmental issues etc and has given rise to the introduction of funds with dubious claims to this end.
Sustainable x is an advance on doing nothing about major issues such as global warming. There will be many opportunities to develop a more precise metaphor and understanding. We need to get started somewhere.
Ian Powrie
Fascinating topic this, it is the same old story of the lazy majority hijacking the good work of a few and saying to the world "look at me, aren't I just the best..." (insert whatever term suits).
But your author seems to finish off in a similar lazy fashion...'Sustainable viticulture today feels like frantic collective backpedalling within the wine industry, to try to undo some of the damage of the past,' Blanning concludes.
What on earth is that statement all about? Does Blanning believe the wine industry is a collective group of environmental vandals hiding under the newly fashioned skirt of viticultural sustainability? Please explain?
Craig Markby
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Sustainable x (read viticulture, development, etc.) or indeed sustainability are broad metaphors for a global challenge including: environmental management, social development, governance practices, risk and profitability. The responsibilty to do something about these issues to research, set objectives, agree approach and implement rests at many levels: international institutions, national governments, business, communities and individuals. The process is of a continuous nature rather than the formulation of discreet objectives. It has various characteristics including, among others, the broader temporal and spatial requirements of long term risk assessment, with consequences likely to be irreversible and geometric in progression.
