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Parker slams Nossiter with 'Gestapo' slur
October 31, 2007
Oliver Styles
Robert Parker has accused Mondovino director Jonathan Nossiter of 'bigotry' and 'stupidity'.
Posting twice on his bulletin board yesterday, the eminent US wine critic savaged the controversial filmaker for his views on the globalisation of taste.
'Anyone with half a chimp's brain can see through Nossiter's transparency easier than a JJ Prum riesling,' said Parker. 'It is Nossiter and his ilk (call them scary wine gestapo) chanting the same stupid hymn that demand wines be produced in one narrow style.'
Parker continued, calling Nossiter's new book Le Goût et le Pouvoir (Taste and Power) 'propaganda' and labelling his 2004 film Mondovino 'migraine-inducing' and 'disingenuous'.
Nossiter argues that, 'after Kant, judgements of taste are an expression of human autonomy, symbols of moral liberty'.
'We live in a strange time, characterised, it seems, by the collective and willing abandonment of this liberty,' he says.
Parker, following up with a second post on the bulletin board said he was doing his part to 'save the world from appalling stupidity…and the wine bigotry that comes from narrow-minded zealots.'
The publication of Le Goût et le Pouvoir looks set to cement Nossiter's credentials as one of the most divisive wine commentators, with posters on decanter.com falling on both sides of the fence.
'Mr Nossiter claims to love wine but, really, he is in love with himself,' said one poster, calling himself Jack.
Others support Nossiter's stance, with one New Zealand writer saying she 'applaud[s] Jonathan Nossiter's sentiments wholeheartedly'.
Another comment pulls Decanter itself into the row.
'Spot on, Jonathan Nossiter,' said Sarah Hennessy. 'Decanter Magazine: guilty as charged.'
Have your say...
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 I'll start by saying I am not a fan of Robert Parker. Pretty much for the reasons he is knocking Nossiter. It goes back to the adage that he is attacking his enemies for what he is guilty of doing. I find Parker has a narrow mind and palate. I'm really getting tired of the over alcoholic, low acid reds with the jammy, plum fruit that has resulted from his critiques. I'm sorry but I like wine that goes with food. I'm finding that many of these wine critics must have burned out palates from too much tasting.
Keith Pritchard, OH, USA
When my father and his friends wanted to give a good birthday present to each other, the chosen was a "bottle of scotch whisky". It would trade around 35 to 40 dollars each. Nowadays it costs around 12 to 15 dollars - regardless of the Euro steep climb - and will stay there. On the other hand, wine prices have soared, and some 50 dollar bottles not always express quality that matches the amount. But they are always preceded by a nice review to justify that price.
In other words, there's a huge market for wine now that did not exist before, and thus, expert's words, conducting people to this or that producer, label, country, grape or whatever they want, will surely turn huge profits in. That is true even for low priced picks that rely on quantity over quality but which are the doors to further sofistication. These should, in no way, scare the beginners. Mix this with artificial rounding - pharmacy wines, as I call them - techniques and you get the picture. It's all a matter of trade before being of taste. No wonder Nossiter is against all that, and clashes repeatedly against the agents of the evil he sees on these different types of manipulation.
I agree with him in full.
Mauro Nahoum
It is alarming that that neither Nossiter nor Parker have the sense to refuse to participate in a battle of wits with an unarmed opponent. Individual taste is just that and when reading a wine review one should be aware,or discover, the writer's biases.
Peter W. Le Fort
I can understand Nossiters broad picture : wine has become less cultural and more business oriented. As any business it is mostly about making money. By making good wine though, contrary to what he pretends. But I cannot give credit nor trust the sincerety of someone intending to make money by criticizing a supposedly money driven wine business. Nossiter is, too, money driven.
Anon
The only taste buds that count are one's own. Do the work: taste the wines, form your own opinions, let the Titans rant and rave in their little world all they want.
JK
From a rational perspective Robert Parker is doing you a favor no matter which side of the fence you sit on. If your palette is turned on by similar choices to his own then you have found a convenient way to sift through the myriad wines to get to the gems. If on the other hand you do not like Parkers palette then you will save your euros by sampling wines he has given a poor score to. There is certainly no shortage of those dear friends. As for the Gestapo comment, it is Parkers way diffusing Trans-Atlantic conflict – history shows that Franco-American relations blossom prior to invasion.
Toby Bensimon, Australia
Hopefully, Parker's days of dictating style are coming to an end. After too many years of all wines tasting nearly identical, I think people are getting tired of it and looking for something unique. Farewell, Mr Parker.
Steve Flynn, September Wines & Spirits, NY, USA
Remember when it was just the wine that mattered? Dueling critics are boring. Trust your own palate; it never lies.
Barry Bassin, Florida, USA
Nossiter has hit the nail on the head. We need to go back to the days (not long ago) before Parker could dictate wine's style and wine had no style.
Dan Friedman, NYC Wine Report, NYC, USA
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