Broadbent and Clarke: Bordeaux all tastes the same
November 30, 2007
Maggie Rosen
Veteran wine critics Oz Clarke and Michael Broadbent have accused top Bordeaux producers of making wines that are indistinguishable from one region to the next.
In an interview that appears in the January 2008 issue of Decanter, Broadbent expresses concern at the current state of winemaking in general, and Bordeaux in particular.
Decrying wine that fails to express its terroir, he says, 'they're all being made in the same style now – you can't tell the difference between a St-Estèphe, St-Julien or Margaux. They're making Pomerol wines in the Médoc.'
Clarke agrees, adding 'and they're not as good at it.'
Clarke claims he 'weeps' at the homogenisation of Bordeaux, a result of 'alcohol, new oak and consultants', and is 'enormously worried' by the trend.
But their criticism isn't reserved for the old world alone. Clarke and Broadbent also lament new world producers' over-dependence on consultants and ratings from international wine critics, excessive levels of oak and alcohol, and prices.
'I'm not very popular in California because I've been so critical of these 15% wines at such huge prices,' said Broadbent.
'Join the club,' said Clarke. 'Why do we have to have 15/16/16.5% wine, watered back to 14.5%? It doesn't fool anyone.
'I could save them all money by setting myself up as a consultant and halving their oak bill… But they won't do it because they won't get more than 89 points in what I call the “major international wine press”.'
'What I'd spend most of my money on in the next 10-20 years would be trying to find Bordeaux which spoke of its place,' Clarke adds. 'And that's certainly not a wine made by a highly paid consultant.'
Have your say... To read the whole interview, see next month's issue of Decanter, out on December 5. To post your comment on this story, email us at news@decanter.com, making sure the relevant headline is in the subject field
I think they've both lost it. Clarke for sure. I expect better from the self proclaimed "best" wine magazine in the world. I'm tired of the crying that invades every issue. You are guilty of the very thing you wrongly accuse others: dictating style and taste. I wonder if you would feel the same if "Decanter Points" were quoted by the wine trade.
Robert M. Broder, Philadelphia, USA
Aren't we all getting a little tired of the coverage of these predominantly English wine writers and their thinly veiled jabs at Robert Parker and Michel Rolland. This entire notion of their diatribe against "high alcohol" and "all wines taste the same" is getting so old. I immensely respect Michael Broadbent and his historical perspective on wines. Oz Clarke is much more obscure for many reasons, but why on earth can things not change, and all for the better, if I may ask? Why does it not matter so much to them that the wines made, in particular in Bordeaux now, are so much better than they used to be. Why on the planet can they not accept that weedy green insipid wines that were the norm in the 60's and 70's are no longer something anyone cares to drink? Has it not dawned on these gentlemen that there might be something to the idea of global warming? And if that is the case, we're seeing the result with some fantastic vintages producing super ripe (not over-ripe) fruit that gives rise to the wines being given high ratings by highly respected publications, who also happen to me market-makers in the world. Let it go, I say; nobody's listening to you anymore...
Gil Lempert-Schwarz
A book may be written about this subject.
Yes, nobody may contest that, at blind tastings, top professionnal tasters have some difficulties to recognize the origin of the wines, in Bordeaux area (please notice in Burgundy this problem simply does not exist inside the best Producers).
But also, nobody can say that now, in 2007, the vast majority of cab-merlot wines are worse than the ones produced in the 50/60/70. Obviously, more and more consumers have access to very good, decent, affordable wines.
We may write a chapter about the role of climate' changes; also one on Michel Rolland or Stephane Derenoncourt and certainly one on Robert Parker. The big question is always deluded. Why Producers ask advises to Consultants and why amateurs read and follow advises of The Wine Advocate, The Wine Spctator, Decanter, RVF ? Simply because they avoid personal studies, personal opinions, and are happy to have, at a very small cost, some good advises.
If UK writers have lost influence in the wine critic' world, it is certainly not the fault of MM Parker or Rolland. If they are looking for a faulty guy, they have to blame the consumer who may have followed what they may consider as the “bad guys”. They have full right to criticize the new trends, but, again, what was in their time a pure elitist passion – Bordeaux claret – is now a far more common shared passion and so, allow me to thank “chapeau bas” MM Parker and Rolland for what they have done, even if on both sides , Producers and Consumers, some have “understood” too far their recommendations.
Both of them, like Puisais and Peynaud deserve our full respect and cannot be blamed if us, the consumers, are a little stupid.
François Mauss, Luxemburg
I also fear for the "Coke-syndrom". Wherever you travel Coke tastes the same. Instead I love the differences in our wineworld. Please all wineproducers, keep your personality and region charachter in your wines.
Lennart Odlander, winewriter, Sweden
I have been lucky enough to drink a few Bordeaux recently from 61,66,70,76,78 and none were 'weedy green insipid' so perhaps it's a little arrogant to think that all wine now is better than it was. I think everyone would agree that it's down to a matter of personal taste - in blind tastings of cabs, my wife and I always pick out the 15% ones which we dislike. That's fine - I just don't buy them, but the point is that there is an increasing trend for wine to taste the same, be it Napa or Stellenbosch cab, or even Argentine Malbec or 'Super' Tuscans. That actually means that there is less choice for the consumer as the winemakers are understandably in business to chase money (it is a business after all, not a charitable art form) and sadly money these days equates to high scores. Nobody can blame Parker and Rolland as they too are in business, and hugely successful at it too, but it is a shame that the consumer is so sheep- like as to follow blindly one man's palate. Do you buy your meat, or clothes because someone you have never met says lamb is better than beef, or that green is the best colour for a coat? Frankly, whether the 2006 Bordeaux will be as interesting in 30 years time as the 76 or 66 I don't know and never will as the latest rain soaked (sorry, saved by September) vintage costs three times as much. As Bordeaux has now largely become big corporate business, I'd much rather drink Burgundy - real wine which tastes of real places and real people, not the latest sales figures of luxury multinationals. And the wine's not built on steroids either. Thankfully there are still some voices willing to buck the trend and stand up for us 'wimpy' palates...
Adrian Latimer, Paris, France
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I think they've both lost it. Clarke for sure. I expect better from the self proclaimed "best" wine magazine in the world. I'm tired of the crying that invades every issue. You are guilty of the very thing you wrongly accuse others: dictating style and taste. I wonder if you would feel the same if "Decanter Points" were quoted by the wine trade.
