Marks and Spencer has announced the launch of Pink Port: 'a brand new Port style… targeting the younger, female port drinker.'
The new style is 'bright pink in colour with fresh fruit aromas.' The port has the same sugar levels as ruby ports, while acidity levels are 'finely tuned to ensure the right balance.'
M&S says the new style, priced at £7.99, is set to 'transform the port category'. The last time a new port style was launched, it notes, was Late Bottled Vintage in 1970.
Five members of a Decanter panel tasting, including two Masters of Wine, tasted the wine blind last week. Their comments ranged from 'is it a Canadian ice wine?' to 'is it from the UK?' to 'what is it?'
The general view was that it was very confected, with burning alcohol. When they realised it was a fortified wine (the nose is akin to a fruity rosé), the question became 'when would you drink this?'.
One said, 'It's too confected for an aperitif, which is how M&S are marketing it, but you can't imagine bringing it out with the Stilton either.'
Decanter editor Guy Woodward said: 'While I applaud M&S's effort to take port out to a wider audience, I'm not convinced this is the way to do it. This doesn't taste like any port I know – it's more like vodka and cranberry juice.
'I suspect they're trying to jump on the rosé bandwagon. The nose smells like a rosé but then you get this whack of confected fruits and alcohol on the palate.
'M&S has built a reputation for high quality, exclusive wines, but I'm afraid this isn't one of them. It tastes rather cheap, and is worryingly close to the alcopop market.'
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Good story. Market research in the U.S. shows that women predominately determine wine choices by a factor of 80+%! Explains a lot about packaging designs, doesn't it fellas?
Cliff Stepp, Show Host, GrapeVine Radio
Please don't generalise when it comes to 'women'. I love a full bodied, concentrated, complex wine with a well integrated, but noticeable tannic structure - and above all - length! A soft, supple, low alcohol wine will never last the pace as far as I am concerned.
I am sure there are many other women out there who would agree with me. Margreet O'Sullivan -( 'real women don't drink "subtle" wines'!)
If a tasting panel which include two Masters of Wine have difficulty placing this in a blind tasting, it will leave a false impression on the target group (among others) as to what true Port really is. Perhaps M&S should consider marketing this so-called "Pink Port" in a martini glass, served with a slice of lime. Shaken.
Wine Slut, Houston
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