Krug: luxury, Mongolian style July 24, 2008 Lucy Shaw
If you want a luxury hotel, there's the Atlantis Bridge Suite in the Bahamas, the Martinez in Cannes, the New York Plaza – and now a campsite at Krug's Clos du Mesnil in Champagne.
The world's most expensive – bespoke – hotel is a collection of Mongolian yurts overlooking one of the most renowned vineyards in the world.
The eight double-berth tents in Krug's famous Clos du Mesnil vineyard at Mesnil-sur-Oger in Reims cost £40,000 in total – about £2,500 per person. That's without a toilet or shower.
To get some perspective, the presidential suite at the Plaza (with ensuite) is US$15,000 (£7,500). Richard Branson's private 74 acre Necker Island costs about £24,000 for 28 people.
Back in the beautiful walled vineyard, which produces Chardonnay for Krug's fabulously expensive wines, the carpeted yurts are luxurious, with four-poster beds, Egyptian cotton sheets, fresh flowers and candles.
But bathroom facilities are rudimentary. There is no toilet or shower. On the night Decanter visited, seven thirsty journalists and the 15-strong Krug entourage had to make do with dashes to a single bathroom in the main house.
Lucy Shaw takes us on a tour of the accommodation, the yurt village, Clos du Mesnil, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Reims, Champagne
Generators are switched off at 1am, leaving guests to navigate the vineyard by lantern light, while a peal of bells rings out from the village church at 7am, reminding you how thin the yurt's cotton walls are.
There are compensations, not least an endless supply of Krug. Guests are served Krug Grand Cuvée, Krug Rosé, Krug 1996 and Krug Clos du Mesnil 1998.
And food is supplied by world-class chefs. Tomasina Miers, founder of Mexican cantina Wahaca in London, was in charge of culinary proceedings.
The T-bone from three-year-old Limousin cattle was delicious, but Champagne isn't necessarily the best match for the aggressively spicy Mexican sauces. The appetiser, a jalapeño infused Agua Chile had the party downing Krug '96 as if it was cava.
A spokeswoman for Krug said they had had several enquiries. One client has already booked the 'completely packaged experience' for August.
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Lucy Shaw