'My sommeliers swear by Bauduc, even if the accountants swear every time someone orders a bottle instead of Chablis or Pétrus.'
Ramsay recently had a run of negative publicity over his personal and financial affairs, and his top restaurant in Chelsea's Royal Hospital Road did not appear in the 2009 edition of the world's top 100 restaurants listed in Restaurant Magazine.
But Bauduc owner Gavin Quinney is happy to associate his château with Ramsay, and points to the chef's magnanimity.
'We are not paying Gordon any royalties for this – neither for the signature nor for the link from his website,' said Quinney.
'Our wine has earned this label from consistent hard work and quality. If Gordon had wanted to earn a quick buck, why not approach the big guys?'
Château Bauduc is poured at Gordon Ramsay's three-star Michelin restaurant in London, and at Rick Stein's fish restaurant in Padstow. It also featured in the BBC's Oz and James's Big Wine Adventure.
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Having first met Gavin Quinney just at the point he was exiting his previous (very successful) incarnation and given him what I thought was the right advice, namely to enjoy his hard-earned cash rather than risk it all by following his dream and ploughing it in to an un-heard of and run-down Chateau, I have followed his progress at Bauduc with interest. I have nothing but admiration for what he has achieved in such a short time. He does an admirable job in producing consistently excellent wines, which I regularly drink at home. He also has an extraordinarily efficient delivery service – every time I have placed an order, his admirable Alan is on the phone, often within half an hour, seeking a convenient delivery time. Full marks to Gavin for the wines, the service and the lifestyle that he has earned to go with it.
As for the other side of this story, it is to Gavin's huge credit that he has earned the attention of Gordon Ramsay. It is equally to Gordon Ramsay's credit that he has selected a wine not because of its name or reputation, but on quality and value alone. And whatever magazine – for whatever reason – has left him out of their selection, he remains a remarkable chef with remarkable restaurants.
Paul Bowker, Wilkinson Vintners, London, UK
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