'Surprise' result for Margaux and Lafite against New World
May 6, 2009
By Guy Woodward
In what might be seen as a reversal of recent trends, two Bordeaux first growths have triumphed in a top-level blind tasting.
Yesterday in London, premium Chilean producer Errazuriz gathered some of the UK's top palates to recreate its landmark 'Berlin' tasting, pitting its own wines against the top names of Bordeaux, Tuscany and California.
In a line-up of a dozen wines, the judges gave the first two places to Chateau Margaux 2005 and Chateau Lafite 2005, followed by a 'Super Tuscan'. Errazuriz wines took the next four places, while Opus One, the sole Californian wine, was placed last of the 12.
Errazuriz president Eduardo Chadwick first conducted the tasting in 2004 in Berlin, when his wines took the top two places. Describing the event as 'a milestone in the history of the Chilean wine industry', Chadwick has since repeated the event in Tokyo, Toronto and Beijing.
The tastings frequently elicit protests from Bordeaux, whose producers complain that taking their wines out of context leads them to underperform.
On this occasion, however, a panel comprising some of the UK's top tasters, including Jancis Robinson MW, Tim Atkin MW and Oz Clarke, were unanimous in favouring the clarets.
Decanter consultant editor Steven Spurrier, who took part in the inaugural tasting, and has attended several since, observed that this was 'without doubt the most pro-Bordeaux result we've seen'.
decanter.com has reported on a handful of tastings - notably the recurring 'Judgement of Paris' events - in which top clarets have been scored lower than their New World counterparts.
In recent years, wine lovers on either side of the Atlantic have debated the divergence of taste in the UK and the US, with American critics being more tolerant of the high alcohol, high oaked wines seen in the New World, while UK critics favoured the more restrained approach of the classic European regions.
This year's event was originally scheduled for the US, but was moved to London after Errazuriz's US agent advised Chadwick that the economic climate might not be conducive to such a high-end event. Chadwick hopes to schedule a US tasting for 2010.
The results in full:
1 Château Margaux 2005
2 Château Lafite-Rothschild 2005
3 Solaia 2005
4 Don Maximiano 2006
5= Viñedo Chadwick 2006
5= Seña 2005
7 Seña 2006
8 Château Latour 2005
9 Sassicaia 2005
10 Don Maximiano 2005
11 Viñedo Chadwick 2005
12 Opus One 2005
Have your say... To post your comment on this story, email us at news@decanter.com
In the interests of clarity I should point out that the marks were awarded anonymously rather than unanimously. While two of the First Growths came top, this was the outcome of an aggregated voting system. It would have been fascinating to see the actual tally of the votes cast; it is my guess that virtually every wine was awarded top billing by at least one of the judges - there were fifty or so present after all.
Hugo Rose MW
I am surprised how well the Bordeaux wines have done at this early point in their lives. I am pretty certain that if this same line up of wines were compared again in 10, 20 and say 30 years time that Chateau Latour would join its 1st growth stablemates at the top of the list and the Chilean wines will have long since faded into history!
George Biswas, Surrey, England
Well, this result is interesting - but only in passing. Why Errazuriz bothers I don't really know - they have some superb wines and I believe they ought to market them for what they are rather than making comparisons with Margeaux and Lafite. Yes, it is one way to get noticed - but really, it is the lazy man's marketing. Erraziriz wines can stand on their own two feet - but that needs persistence and a much longer term commitment to both marketing and the British market/consumer. This long term loyalty/commitment is not made by simplistic comparisons.
Margeaux and Lafite have 160+ years of marketing behind them and make superb wines of their style, I don't see the need to go head-to-head with them. One group is from the creme of Bordeaux - the other the premium of the Aconcagua Valley ...... one is from a northern European maritime climate - the other from a semi-continental Mediterranean climate. The wines are different - enjoy that difference!
George Bizwas - in thirty years time ... who cares? Sorry, but laying in wines for my great grandchildren to drink has little interest. I think you were practicing public Onanism when you wrote that comment. Great wines are just that - accept with gratitude the global variation in varietal expression. Each being different - each being valid (and greatly enjoyable) in context.
Murray Paterson
Regarding the results of the Berlin tasting, the day after the one in London, i had the pleasure of taking part in the one in Stockholm, the results were even more francophile than i expected.
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