Parker slams Medoc for 'pride, provincial jealousies and greed' June 9, 2006
Panos Kakaviatos
Robert Parker has slammed the 'aristocrats of the Medoc' on his bulletin board for 'pride, provincial jealousies, and greed' in their pricing policies.
Following conversations with buyers and sellers, the influential critic posted a vitriolic attack on his website.
Parker accused the chateau of 'devising a multitude of ways to manipulate the marketplace by creating the illusion of shortages' in continually holding back from releasing their wines and prices in the 2005 en primeur campaign.
Parker warned that these tactics could backfire with the end of school year around two weeks away, saying that fighting over cases of hyped Bordeaux would seem 'increasingly irrelevant'.
'By dragging this process into mid-June, they may well be killing the golden goose, all because of pride, provincial jealousies, and greed,' he said.
'Why a famous chateau can't decide on a realistic price that gives them a good profit, forget that their neighbours might make a few euros more or less, and just sell the wines must just be too damn simple.'
Parker said he pictured consumers saying 'bugger off' to the 'silly price games' being played by the chateaux.
Those in Bordeaux had mixed views.
'We never try to manipulate the market,' Paul Pontallier of first growth Château Margaux told decanter.com. '[But] I can see if others have the temptation to do so.'
Pontallier also defended the timing of the campaign saying that this was not the first time it had lasted into June.
'Producers need to have an idea of the market, so it is logical to take longer,' he said. 'In 2004, we came out earlier with prices because there was less interest.'
Lilian Barton, of second-growth Château Léoville Barton conceded that the campaign was running 'too late'.
'Everyone is fed up,' Barton told decanter.com. 'I had a customer in Hong Kong who half jokingly told me that the money he had put aside to buy wine has been used to buy Louis Vuitton bags.'
On the Right Bank meanwhile, Hubert de Bouard of the premier cru classé Château Angélus in St. Emilion agreed that the 'process is taking too long' and agreed with Parker.
'The fact that we are looking at one another is frustrating for consumers,' he said. 'I am convinced that he is right.'
A decanter.com poll so far shows that 58% of respondents do not plan to buy any 2005 futures at all.
Have your say... To post your comment on this story, email us at news@decanter.com
I totally agree with Parker and where I was first very interested in buying 2005, I am now getting hesitant and will not buy if the prices are outrageous. Moreover, there is more and more excellent wine around the globe and although I have always been a Bordeaux drinker, the marketing and pricing policies of the Bordeaux Grand Cru chateaux make me focus more and more on other areas. Hein Hooghoudt
I could not agree with Parker more. After the hype on 2000 and 2003 I will pass on 2005 futures. I will not participate in this folly and will put my dollars into Spain, Australia, and California. Ted Phillips
I echo Parker's sentiments entirely. Prices in many cases are well in excess of the current market price for 2000 and 2003. I will pass at these prices and enjoy drinking some of my current stocks bought at a fraction of the cost. Edward Bolland
I am sitting this one out. There are simply too many other great wines out there. Rick Lester
I completely concur with Parker's remarks. The process is painfully long and I am sick and tired of telling long-time Bordeaux customers to expect inflated prices yet again. More than half of them have given up on their verticals. Not even a SINGLE bottle. It would be wise for Bordeaux to take a long hard look at what happened to southern France. There are other great wines less expensive and less difficult to obtain. When even the elite, lifelong customers turn their backs it should be a serious wakeup call. 2005 may be a vintages for the ages but if no one can get it or afford it what's the point? Steve Savina, Texas
Parker is absolutely right. I have invested in some more of the 1995's and 1996's - which are looking increasingly good value in my opinion (but don't tell anyone). Andy Williams
I have read and agree with Robert Parker's statements..we all understand supply and demand, but this is ridiculous! It has also just happened with 2003 Leoville Barton...frankly, I was going to buy heavily in 2005, but I just don't like being so obviously manipulated. And at the unrealistic prices for en primeur, 1st tranche, I will be buying a few value wines and saving my money for 2000 and 2003. Sanity must reign! William Clay
It is understandable that there are various and perhaps contrasting opinions on the subject, but I wonder if at the end of it all he also may have indirectly precipitated this situation. Who knows, it might be an idea worth considering if he were to delay his tasting notes to after the prices are released. Freda Schranz
I totaly agree with Robert Parker. Indeed, some chateaux in Bordeaux, all the Classified Growths, are playing this game because of the vintage, and take the opportunity to increasing prices by 50% and more. Nevertheless, everybody is playing the game, and accept the rules. If buyers are ready to pay that means their customers also accept it. I can confirm though, that you can still find some Bordeaux chateaux that are dealing in quality and keep their prices stable. Pierre Courdurie
As much as I dislike much of what Robert Parker writes and projects, I am slowly convinced of, and share many of his opinions regarding the Bordeaux market. He is absolutely correct in criticizing the behavior of the Bordeaux "wine-mafia". They are indeed ruining their market / market share, all on their own. However, Asia will pick up some of the slack if the Americans and Europeans don't want to buy. I love the wines of the Bordeaux region, and have purchased my first 2005 premiers, however, fewer and from value oriented chateaux. Scott Wolfsteller
I also agree with Robert Parker. What is the point in releasing minuscule quantities of wine as a producer so that you can defend predatory pricing with the pretence of a more reasonable first tranche opening price, when in reality the first tranche is barely a slither? Greed, envy and parochialism hold sway in a stiffly starched society, and short-termism encourages wild swings between vintages. Current pricing means that for many wines there is no incentive on the consumer to finance the Chateaux for two years, and no financial benefit for doing so......so why tie your money up for several years and allow the producer to take all the profits and none of the risk during this period of 'elevage'? People who buy first growths at £4500 a case are fools, self-indulgent millionaires or have been suckered by the excitement of a campaign artificially hyped by small release quantities. Nick Martin
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I totally agree with Parker and where I was first very interested in buying 2005, I am now getting hesitant and will not buy if the prices are outrageous. Moreover, there is more and more excellent wine around the globe and although I have always been a Bordeaux drinker, the marketing and pricing policies of the Bordeaux Grand Cru chateaux make me focus more and more on other areas. Hein Hooghoudt
