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Jefford on Monday

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Vineyard workers Chateau Hansen Wuhai Inner Mongolia

The pace is fierce in Ningxia. This is a wine-growing region where 'old vines' means those that have seen out ten summers. Of the 110 winery leases that have been granted so far, 50 wineries are under construction (or is it 77? – figures here depend on who you talk to) and around 10 are in production – yet the regional powers are already discussing a classification system.

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Jefford on Monday: A Sexennial Treat

World Atlas of Wine

One harvest every six years, I think, deserves a little comment, especially when the crop is the most useful single volume on wine ever published. I am a child of the second edition of The World Atlas of Wine (my copy treasured to this day). With the fifth, the baton passed from Hugh Johnson to Jancis Robinson (and team): the wine world’s leading intelligence agency. The old lapidary style began to dissipate; the book’s informative shoulders grew broader. How good is edition seven?

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Jefford on Monday: Wine Exceptionalism

French wine sign

Is France poised to ban all discussion of wine on the internet? Will wine writing in France be classified as advertising, and therefore sanctioned under the Loi Evin? Will DRC and Pétrus have to print 'Le vin tue' (wine kills) on their labels?

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anquet scenario including fountains, Hansen, Wuhai

Five late September days in the Chinese vineyard regions of Ningxia and Wuhai was all it took to make me realise the tameness of the western larder, the placidity of western drinking practices and the total irrelevance of 'wine-and-food matching' to the Chinese gastronomic experience. Along the Yellow River, things are very different.

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Jefford on Monday

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Award-winning writer Andrew Jefford's Monday column on Decanter.com

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