A bright June day in Chablis gave me a chance to talk (and taste the pristine, beautifully classical 2012s) with Alain Marcuello at Fèvre and then Benoît Droin. Both, I was surprised to find, had adopted Diam corks for all of their production. Both were happy with the results: no more corked bottles or premox problems, they claimed; vineyard profiles intact; satisfactory ageing thus far (since 2008 for Fèvre and 2011 for Droin). Hugel in Alsace is another Diam evangelist, as are Jadot and Bouchard Père et Fils for their white wines, Grands Crus included. Time, I felt, to learn more.
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