Decanter World Wine AwardsBordeaux 2011: frost threatens buds brought on by heatwave
- Monday 11 April 2011
As most of Western Europe basked in weather more common in June than April, Bordeaux sweltered in temperatures that regularly topped 30 degrees Centigrade.
But winemakers now have another cause for concern: that the sun is bringing the vines on too fast, leaving new buds vulnerable to April frost.
Every visitor to Bordeaux last week remarked on the transformation of the vines from bare forks at the beginning of the week to substantial leaf growth at the end.
‘Yes, we are worried,’ Pichon Lalande oenologist Thomas Do Chi Nam told Decanter.com. ‘A hard frost can kill buds when they are advanced.’
Other experienced chateau owners have said the same, citing the frosts of 21 April 1991, April 1956 and April 1994 as evidence.
In 1991, Do Chi Nam said, 15-20% of the crop was lost across Bordeaux.
Other winemakers such as Philippe Moreau of Chateau de Pez are more sanguine, pointing out that such devastating frosts in April are very rare, and in any case the ground will retain the heat from such prolonged fine weather. ‘The risks are small,’ he said.
Nevertheless, wine is sensitive to atmospheric pressure and chateaux were pleased to be able to show their wines under blue skies.
When the barometer is falling, acids can be dulled and tannins more pronounced. When pressure is high, wines can taste brighter, the acid fresher, the tannins more integrated.
Everybody remembers the miserable weather this time last year, with critics dashing between car park and tasting room under leaden skies and furious downpours.
No one suggests that the 2009 was compromised by the weather, but equally there is no doubt that blue skies and hot sun make everyone happier.
‘It’s wonderful. The wines are very approachable at the moment,’ Edouard Moueix of J-P Moueix said. ‘It’s the weather. We were a bit worried last week as the wines seemed quite reserved, but they have really opened themselves.’
In the end, Bordeaux vignerons are fatalistic. Charles Chevallier at Chateau Lafite shrugged his shoulders when asked about the dangers of frost.
‘There is always a danger in April. But what can we do?’
Have your say!
Einar S Pedersen
April 15 03:47
Comment to James Maclellan: I haven't read any research on pressure affecting the taste of wine, but in the Airline business it is a well known fact, and a great challenge when choosing wine to serve on board. Even though the aircraft are pressurized, the cabin altitude is still 8 to ten thousand feet above sea level.
Emmanuelle Jullien-Prat
April 13 04:29
Let's not be too harsh! This weather issue is a fact to be pointed at and that's it.There are
8500 Bordeaux wine producers, and 5 % only releasing "en primeur" and selling at high prices. The vast majority of wine producers have small chateaux, selling in bulk or at affordable prices in bottle and yes, they are quite are worried right now. The economic crisis is still there in Bordeaux.
Lower yield means lower income for many wine producers, simple as that.
James MacLellan
April 12 12:42
"Nevertheless, wine is sensitive to atmospheric pressure and chateaux were pleased to be able to show their wines under blue skies.
When the barometer is falling, acids can be dulled and tannins more pronounced. When pressure is high, wines can taste brighter, the acid fresher, the tannins more integrated."
Could anyone point out some evidence of this? I've observed wines tasting completely different in places without airflow causing muted flavours (like a 20th story, sealed office) as opposed to expressive flavours (a well ventilated room). Would be great to quote the research behind this!
Geoff Roberts
April 12 10:12
So, it's either frosts that will reduce yeild and put the price up oR it's sunny April that will help develop wines that can taste brighter, the acid fresher, the tannins more integrated, and put the price up!
I have less and less sympathy for these poor (not!) Bordelais.
Thankfully, the same weather conditions apply to Bergerac, Duras, Monbazillac etc. that are affordable.