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Seifried Estate winemaker Heidi Seifried talks to Guy Woodward about her DWWA award-winning wine, Sweet Agnes Riesling.
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John, I have to echo your concerns about the manufacturing of wine in this way. While such wines can undoubtedly be very tasty, I ultimately tent not to take them as seriously.
That said, I am aware that estates in Sauternes, etc. use cryoextraction to increase sweetness if necessary, so this isn't just a New World thing. I suppose the answer is that if a winery has "done a Bird's Eye" on it, or used cryoextraction, they should be required to state on the label that the wine has been processed rather than concentrated naturally through either botrytis or natural freezing.
Interesting interview that really challenges traditional ideas of wine making. Fast freezing grapes in the way that Birdseye peas are treated seems a long way from what many of us would consider as winemaking. The criticism of "New World" wines used to be that they were "manufactured" not "created" & this will certainly fuel that argumnent. The increasing involvement of technology in winemaking is nevertheless an interesting topic. As consumers we certainly benefit from more reliability & a more commercial approach to product production but do we lose the mystique? Is the increased popularity of biodynamic wines a visible backlash?
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