Tom Cannavan visits Italy’s far northeast to meet Joško Gravner, an enigmatic winemaker who inspires extremes of praise and scepticism alike.

Many things seem to have informed Joško Gravner’s decision, or decisions, to radically change his winemaking direction over the years. Those meant risking everything: his reputation, his thriving business, perhaps even his friends.

Today, Gravner is one of the most revered cult names of Italian winemaking, following a rigorous natural winemaking philosophy. The wine world – not just Italy – pays attention to what he does, and many follow his example. But it was not always thus.

 

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Tom Cannavan is a widely published and awarded wine writer, journalist and broadcaster, and owner of www.wine-pages.com.