Bordeaux 2007: Union des Grands Crus tasting
The vintage, writes Steven Spurrier, is renowned for being saved by a remarkable change in the weather at the end of August. After a cold, rainy, mildew-ridden summer, the sun came out and continued to shine more or less constantly until the beginning of November. Châteaux with the means to combat three months of mildew resisted picking for as long as possible, with the result that Left Bank Cabernets were picked at between 12 and 12.5 abv, slightly higher even than the very concentrated 1961s, while final tannin content was higher than any great vintage of the last century. Less well-off châteaux, though, had to pick at the first hint of ripeness, with predictable results.
Deprived of long, slow ripening, even the best wines will tend to show well just a year or two after bottling, and this was borne out at the recent UCG tasting in London. Similarly, white wines stood out: a cool summer favours Sémillon and particularly Sauvignon Blanc grapes for dry whites, while Barsac and Sauternes, regular beneficiaries of 'comeback' vintages, finished their harvests in triumph.
The
en primeur tastings in spring 2008 were surprisingly positive: slightly less good than 2004, better than 2002, and to be drunk waiting for the 2005s and 2006s to reach maturity. But it was an expensive vintage to produce - around half of the already mildew-reduced crop was rejected in the cellar, and the proportion of 'grand vin' from the top classed growths was the lowest ever. As such, the hoped-for 30% reduction in prices did not materialise and the sales campaign was drawn-out and sluggish. Interest virtually collapsed with the arrival of the credit crunch and a healthy 2008 vintage.
Now, though, prices have come down substantially, and despite the weak pound, some of the wines may represent good value. While there's no rush, it would be a pity to ignore this vintage, but buy for drinking, not investing.
Here are the best wines of the tasting, with notes by Steven Spurrier and Stephen Brook.