Mâconnais - by Andrew Jefford

The white wines of the Mâconnais seemed to withstand the solar onslaught of 2003 slightly better than their counterparts further north. That’s not to say, however, that it’s a resoundingly great vintage. Balance is the hallmark of all great wine, no matter where it comes from, and it is hard to say that many of these wines are beautifully balanced. The best do have some acidity, albeit of a very gentle kind, and the minerality of particularly stony vineyards can also act on occasion as ballast, filling the glycerousness out with chewy depth.

Macon-Uchizy-Les Maranches, Heretiers du Comtes Lafon 2003

Scented leaves and spice suggest another rich, exotic wine, which is exactly what this honeyed mouthful delivers, its tangerine fruit freighted with ginger. Drink up to 2010.
£120 (case of 12, in bond) BBR

Macon-Milly, En Baranjoux Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Christophe Cordier 2003

Oak-dominated scents at present, but the wine%u2019s sumptuous, glycerous, luxurious width on the palate suggests that this will integrate. Walnut and cinnamon spice to finish. Drink up to 2010.
£13.95 L&S

Macon-Milly-Lamartine, Clos du Four, Heritiers du Comtes Lafon 2003

Pure, sweet aromas, though needing time to acquire intricacy; relatively lively, fresh flavours providing not exoticism but deliciousness. Drink up to 2010.
£81 (case of 12, in bond) BBR

Pouilly-Fuisse, Terroir de Vergisson, Olivier Merlin 2003

Smoky scents, vivid acidity and a pure, mineral flavour make this one of the liveliest of the wines tasted this year. Bread, stones and peaches to finish. Drink up to 2012.
£150 (case of 12, in bond) BBR

Pouilly-Vinzelles, Le Quarts, Domaine de la Soufrandiere 2003

This large-dimensioned yet gentle wine, made from 40 to 70-year-old vines, has appealingly biscuity scents and flavours swimming in soft apricot fruit. Drink up to 2010.
£168 (case of 12, in bond) BBR

Macon-la Roche Vineuse, Vieilles Vignes, Olivier Merlin 2003

Soft, milky scents and a creamy, lush flavour make this nursery Mâcon an easy-going treat. Delicate, rounded acidity helps it all down. Drink soon.
£81 (case of 12, in bond) BBR

Pouilly-Fuisse, En Carementrant, Bret Brothers 2003

Aromatically compelling, the Bret Brothers%u2019 Carementrant (made from purchased fruit on a stony Vergisson sector of the appellation) smells creamy, sweet and pollen-laden. The palate is rich, mouthfilling and textured, with charming flavours of vanilla, lees and soft nougat. Drink up to 2013.
£162 (case of 12, in bond) BBR

Pouilly-Fuisse, Verget 2003

Full, bready, stony scents, followed by a broad, firm, chewy flavour of gentle lime. Long, vinous finish. Drink up to 2010.
£12.95 L&S

Pouilly-Fuisse, La Verchere, Vieilles Vignes, Daniel Barraud 2003

Beautifully crafted scents of white almond, sun-warmed lemon and soft butter, followed by a dense, full, chewy palate, almost reminiscent of Hermitage Blanc. Drink up to 2013.
£16.95 L&S

Pouilly-Fuisse, Les Crays, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine des Vieilles Pierres 2003

This wine has pretty scents of peach, apricot and honesuckle, while on the palate there%u2019s a gentle citrus intricacy. Drink 2008-10.
£120 (case of 12, in bond) J&B