70% Semillion, 30% Muscadelle matured in old oak, now amber gold, with concentrated orange peel and burnt apple flavours, almost caramelised richness with crackling acidity, a great sweet wine. £19.20 (50cl) J&B
A superbly botrytised Chardonnay-Welschriesling blend, fully rich, very sweet with lingering complexity. Good with berry fruits and summer pudding. £9.99 (37.5cl) Wai
A 100% wild yeast, barrel-fermented, 100% malolactic and 18 months in old oak take on Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. A resounding success, with a structure that will benefit from further age. £18.49 HvN, Maj, Sel, Wmb
The Delaporte vines are all on the chalky slopes of Chavignol and this wine spends a brief time in barrel, which gives roundness but no oak flavour. Aromatic, mineral and complex, more Sancerre than Sauvigon by a long chalk. £15.95 L&S
One of the finest Rieslings from a tasting of 50 wines; fine, minerally/petrolly nose, limey, citrus, orange peel flavours, vibrant dry finish. £13.99 (Stelvin) LLt
An explosion of quince, apricot, lemon, lime and marmalade on the nose, fresh and tight, with a lemony, minerally fruit and crisp finish, this is one of the purest Tocais available. £14.95 L&S
Jean-Michel Deiss took on Alsace authorities to win the right to plant mixed grapes in his grand cru vineyards, to create a wine that represents the cru rather than the varietal. Dominated by Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, the clay Bergheim soils have produced a wine of great richness and depth with an underlying minerality. A unique wine. £29.50 L&S
A 52% Semillion-48% Sauvignon Blanc blend, this has white flowers and suave spiciness and is gaining complexity with no loss of freshness. Expensive compared to Bordeaux though. £14.75 (Stelvin) Lib
One of the great survivors of the appellation, maintained and rejuvenated by sisters Marie and Sylvie Courselle. 15% Sauvignon Gris in the Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend pushes the fruit to a lovely, spicy level. £7.50 (Stelvin) Mnt
This French hybrid is most suitable for cool climates, where it produces a simple, quaffing wine, refreshingly light at 11.5% alcohol. £7 RoW, Tho, WhF
A blend of 55% Reichensteiner and 45% Auxerrois. The former is a cross of German-Muller-Thurgau, French Madeleine Angevine and Italian Calabrese, the latter from Alsace. Floral and lively with lovely soft fruit and refreshing acidity. £8.50 RoW, tho, WhF
From 12 hectares of Sauvignon grown on the three different soils of the appellation - stony, chalk and flint - resulting in pure varietal aromas, assertive (not aggressive) fruit, vivacious yet suave finish. £9.79 Wai
A 50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon from old, hand-picked vines, tank fermented, unoaked but lees-stirred to heighten natural richness, herbaceous, smooth, very sophisticated for the price. £6.49 (Stelvin) Wai
This single-vineyard Rheingau comes from sandy-loam soils to give rich, juicy fruit which minimalistic winemaking keeps fresh and pure. £7.99 (Stelvin) Wai
The calling card of Ernie Loosen, the great moderniser/traditionalist of German wine. 9.5% with Mosel fruit, lively, refreshing, perfect. £5.95 (Stelvin) Sie
