Feudi di San Gregorio, Serpico, Irpinia Aglianico, 1999

An utterly unique wine from four hectares of ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines which are trellised on traditional pergola systems, this was another astonishing wine displaying sagacity, complexity and an age-defying youthfulness. Aglianico often has a reputation for rusticity, but these ripe and molten tannins from prime volcanic soils were exquisitely full, polished and refined. The fruit still retained stunning sour cherry intensity, with a touch of balsam, coffee and cocoa on the powerful finish. Serpico is not made every year by Feudi di San Gregorio, but when it is, it shines a beacon of elegance and complexity. Utterly compelling wine.