Wolf Blass, Black Label 2012
The Malbec (5%, versus 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Shiraz) sings in the juiciness and violet lift of a vintage characterised by a mild summer with cool nights. Black pepper riffs and a gentle pucker of plum skin add layers and interest to this lively Black Label’s well-defined black cherry, blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. Though new and American oak is down again (to 52% and 22% respectively), its mocha notes currently sit apart. Needs time.
Taster: Sarah Ahmed