Wine lover's guide to Paris
Racines II is the younger sister of Racines, the wine bistro in Passage des Panoramas in the 2e arrondissement. Architect and designer Philippe Starck transformed the location into a baroque, chandeliered loft. The high marble host’s table is the bistro’s signature touch. In the open kitchen, chef Nicolas Gaudoin’s staff bustle around their pots and pans in black t-shirts and blue aprons. Perfectly grilled, vibrant Iberian roast pig, or the splendid dry-aged rib roast with Mont d’Or puree are star dishes. The sommelier is a firm believer in natural wines – as with the Racines before it – and has put together a fine selection of bottles that are largely accessible, such as a €6 glass of white Côtes du Rhône, or a €38 bottle of Nero d’Avola from Sicily. The food is delicious, without pretence, and all the produce sourced by the chef is top quality. All that’s missing are the tattoos of founder and previous owner Pierre Jancou.
Racines II, 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001. Tel: + 33 (0)142 60 77 34.
Closed weekends. €40–€50.