Wine lover's guide to Paris

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This bistro was opened by author and restaurateur Julien Fouin just two years after he opened Glou, the favourite table in the Marais. Jaja, not far away, is a new place serving well-sourced dishes including Ibérico ham and Aubrac beef. And Fouin is just as talented in stocking his wine cellar, which is categorised according to ‘desires’ and focuses very much on France. There are sacred bottles as well as charming wines by the glass, such as Jacky Blot’s sparkling Montlouis (€7), Clos de Trias from Côtes du Ventoux (€6), a Gevrey-Chambertin (€14), white Condrieu (€8) and a 1996 Yquem Sauternes (€39). What’s not to love about grands crus by the glass?

Jaja, 3 rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004. Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 74 71 52;
Closed Mondays. Lunch €20; dinner €28.