Steven Spurrier's top wines to take out from the cellar
From the cellar: Château-Chalon Vin Jaune
The history of Domaine Jean Bourdy at Arlay in the Jura dates from 1475. Such history was illustrated in a tasting back to 1937 of its Vin Jaunes from the Château-Chalon AC, a unique wine from the local Savagnin grape that must stay seven years in barrel before being going into the classic 620ml clavelin bottles.
Château- Chalon Vin Jaunes must first be passed by a tasting commission before being bottled, and one year in five is rejected. 2004: lemon yellow, vigorous acidity, great length, fresh walnut note, like a white Hermitage; 1996: pale gold, slightly nutty, vibrates with depth and acidity for the long term; 1976: pale amber, with rich concentration from a heatwave year that complements the acidity, excellent; 1969: goldamber, richness and acidity blending together to create a superb expression of terroir; 1954: pale amontillado colour, richness of dried fruits with acidity as a back-up, a memorable wine; 1945: amber-gold, natural concentration and still youthful; 1937: amber, has taken on a Sherry-like concentration with natural vigour, superb. Contact Dudley & de Fleury Wines for prices and availability.
Taken from the January 2013 issue of Decanter magazine
Subscribe to Decanter magazine to see Steven's recommendations every month