Steven Spurrier's top wines to take out from the cellar
From the cellar: Last of the summer wines
Spending part of August in Dorset, I opened a few ‘last bottles’.
Whites: Pol Roger, Blanc de Blanc 1999 – white flowers and summer fruits, a youthful blend of ripeness and tension; Marc Morey, En Virondet 1er Cru, Chassagne-Montrachet 1996 – honeyed and rich, having held its vigour due to natural acidity; René Dauvissat, Les Clos Grand Cru, Chablis 1983 – dry herbs, expressive fruit, rich yet bone dry. Huet, Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec, Vouvray 1992 – floral honeyed nose and bright acidity, having eaten much of the sugar.
Reds: the Volnay-like Annick Parent, Les Rugiens 1er Cru, Pommard 2000 and grander Chanson, Clos des Fèves 1er Cru, Beaune 2000 both showed how perfectly this ‘light’ vintage had aged; Léoville- Barton 1986 – a fine St-Julien nose, but still a little hard on the finish, more classic than charming; René Rostaing, Côte Blonde, Côte-Rôtie 1994 –beautifully textured with elegance and depth from a great vineyard; Auguste Clape, Cornas 1983 – warm, ripe nose and earthy yet classy vigour on the palate, perhaps the most surprising of them all.
Taken from the Decanter 2013 issue of Decanter magazine
Subscribe to Decanter magazine to see Steven's recommendations every month