Steven Spurrier's top wines to take out from the cellar
From the cellar: Mature Burgundies
A Burgundy-themed dinner began with two superb 2004 grands crus: Billaud-Simon’s Les Clos, Chablis, lightly honeyed with Les Clos’s rich, dry finish and a great future, and Rémi Rollin’s Corton-Charlemagne, richer and more forward than expected, perfect now.
Then a pair of reds from the Côte de Beaune: Domaine de Montille, Les Grèves, Beaune 1er Cru 2005, elegantly lifted fruit with 10 years in front of it, and Comte Armand’s Clos des Epenots, Pommard 1990, still tannic, will come round this decade and last through the next, but shows more power than finesse.
Finally two reds from the Côte de Nuits: Domaine Maume’s Champeaux 1er Cru, Gevrey- Chambertin 1999, pure and floral with fine Gevrey grip, good for at least five years, and Méo-Camuzet’s Aux Boudots 1er Cru, Nuits-St- Georges 1999, big, earthy, rich and broad, totally pure with superb length, the best of the evening, with 10 years to go, proving that 1999 is the only rival to 1990 in that decade.
Burgundy has no dessert wines, so we finished with JJ Prüm’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2001 and a sublime Hine Cognac 1987, landed 1990, bottled 2004.
Taken from the March 2013 issue of Decanter magazine