Steven Spurrier's top wines to take out from the cellar
From the cellar: Bordeaux Index lunch
At a lunch prepared by the team at London’s The Ledbury restaurant and held by merchant Bordeaux Index, 12 wine writers and critics were treated to Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne 2000 as an aperitif, floral with a creamy texture, perfect now, before moving onto a superb Dönnhoff, Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2010 – controlled richness, racy acidity and a great future – paired with treacle-cured salmon.
With roasted partridge came Haut-Brion 1973 from magnum, still showing its wild rose bouquet and taffeta texture, very much alive; then with Longhorn beef cooked three ways we moved onto Lafite-Rothschild 1990, also from magnum, that had lovely concentration and elegant strength, with 20 years in front of it; followed by a double-magnum of Gruaud-Larose 1990, rich, masculine and chunky, very earthy but much less elegant than the Lafite.
Finally, with the fresh clementine and yogurt dessert we compared two private releases of Domaine Huet’s Clos du Bourg, Vouvray Moelleux 1989, the second from Noel Pinguet’s first full year under biodynamism. Both rich with great natural concentration, the ‘bio’ for me being a little more in the vinsanto style.
Taken from the April 2013 issue of Decanter magazine