Steven Spurrier's top wines to take out from the cellar
From the cellar: A toast to John Avery MW
Not even the deepest snow could keep more than 100 guests away from the memorial banquet held by Bristol’s Commanderie de Bordeaux for its founder, wine merchant John Avery MW. After an aperitif of Avery’s rosé Champagne, the wines were Bordeaux at its best: Domaine de Chevalier’s 2003 white showed none of that year’s heat, being still fresh and pure with a good future; D’Angludet 1995 was young and vigorous but evidently Margaux, and will last as well as the splendid 1986; another Margaux, D’Issan 1985, was very true to its appellation’s femininity, and beautifully balanced; over to St-Emilion, with Canon 2000 showing youthful, floral Cabernet Franc-influenced fruit, superb with a long life in front of it; back to the Médoc, with Château Margaux 1988 itself, whose fragrance, smoothness of texture and depth, and fine dry finish got my highest praise; then D’Yquem 1989, massively rich, and at a glorious peak with enough natural acidity to hold it for years; finally a very Graham-ish 1983 Graham’s Port allowed us to raise another glass in John’s memory.
Taken from the May 2013 issue of Decanter magazine