Steven Spurrier's top wines to put in the cellar
German Pinot Noir
With Burgundy on a roll for almost two decades, Pinot Noir has found new homes across the globe, particularly in Germany. Such was plain from German specialist The Wine Barn’s recent tasting, where Riesling still dominated, but the Pinots shone. Meyer-Nakel’s 12ha in the Ahr are 80% Pinot Noir: his entry-level Spätburgunder 2011 (£15.40) has fine dark cherry fruit, the Blauschiefer 2011 (£24.90) more earthy depth, both drinking 2013–2018; the Sonnenberg Grand Cru 2009 (£45.35) was stylish and classy, for 2013–2023. In Baden, Weingut Bercher (founded 1457) has Pinots Blanc, Gris and Noir, the last’s Burkheimer Feuerberg Grand Cru 2010 (£45.35) showed fine oak and great vineyard fruit, drinking 2013–2018. Franz Keller has a lovely broad Franz Anton 2011 (£21.55) and a taffetatextured ‘S’ 2010 (£35.80), perfect for the family’s Schwarzer Adler restaurant, for 2013–2018. Dr Heger’s steep Kaiserstuhl slopes produce both a charming Sonett 2010 (£15.50) and a complex Achkarrer Schlossberg Grand Cru (£49.35), drink 2013–2023. Finally, from the Wurttemberg, Weingut Aldinger showed a fine, modern Unterturkheimer Gips 2011 (£17.10), drink 2012–2018.
Taken from the May 2013 issue of Decanter magazine