Steven Spurrier's top wines to put in the cellar
Yabby Lake Vineyard, Mornington Peninsula
Established in 1998 by Robert and Mem Kirby in Tuerong, Mornington, the arrival of Tom Carson, former head winemaker at Yering Station, along with the vines’ extra age, has lifted these wines to another level. His Chardonnays do not do malolactic, and mature in 500-litre barrels often two to three years old to achieve a fine, linear style without sacrificing character. The Pinot Noirs are made with dedication to separate parcels in true Burgundian fashion. All wines here are vintage 2010. South Vineyard Chardonnay (13%, £30) has floral yellow fruits, lemony acidity and great length, drink 2013–2016, 17.5/20pts (91/100); Block 6 Chardonnay (12.5%, £55) has more florality, depth and a mineral finish, 2013–2018, 18.5 (95); Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (14%, £30) ripe summer berries, rich texture and silky tannins, 2013–2017, 17 (90); Block 6 Pinot Noir (14%, £55) fragrant and lifted nose, vigour and spice on the palate, 2013–2020, 17.5 (91); Block 2 Pinot Noir (14.5%, £55), sweetness on the palate, silky texture, 2013–2022, 18.5 (95). Prices from Hedonism, London.
Taken from the September 2013 issue of Decanter magazine