Verdict
Please see individual regional reports for specifics.
Weather
While some regions fared worse than others (Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne, notably, experienced extremes), in general the spring was cool across the country which delayed budding. However a hot and very dry June and July made up for this. Drought was an acute issue, particularly where it came to an abrupt end with torrential downpours in August and September, causing rot and burst grapes. Many regions experienced uneven ripening.
Production
The total amount of wine yielded by this year's harvest is estimated at just under 54 million hectolitres, according to the statistics arm of France's Ministère de l'Agriculture et de la Pêche (Department of Agriculture and Fisheries). It is expected to be bottled as follows:
VQPRD: 24 million hectolitres
Vins de pays: 14.9 million hl
Juice, must and 'other' wines: 6 million hl
Wine destined for distillation into cognac and armagnac: 8.9 million hl
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Loire
Verdict
Loire-lovers can expect harmony, fruit and finesse from the 2006 vintage. A cool August freshened things considerably after a warm, mainly dry summer though some growers had to rush to pick before the humid September caused rot to spread too widely.
'The wines are already showing a strong fruit character,' said Isaure de Pontbriand, director of her family's Domaine du Closel, an organic vineyard that produces dry, off-dry and sweet AOC Savennières wine. 'But it looks like they will have the delicious roundness that our wines are known for.'
Another organic and non-interventionist producer, François Cotat of Chavignol-based Domaine Cotat, confirmed that the season's dry heat and sun increased sugar levels, though not enough to put the wine at odds with AOC regulations.
'It's a bit early to say, but the wine seems similar to that of 2005 rich, but also elegant, though with slightly higher alcohol,' said Cotat. 'The juice from south-facing vines was 14.5-15 degrees by the time the rain came (in September). Fortunately, this gave the grapes a bit more juice, and some equilibrium. I see a bit less acidity than last year, but a lot of fruit. I think this will make a fine vintage with good potential.
Weather
A cool spring delayed budding, while a warm, dry June and searing July led some producers to fear the grapes would lose their desired freshness. A cold snap in August brought relief, allowing the grapes to develop some acidity to go with the sugar though a wet September brought the worry of rot.
'The weather this year was full of surprises,' said de Pontbriand. 'August turned suddenly cold, but then we had a strange Indian summer - warm and humid. We had to harvest quickly to avoid a disaster.'
Production
The third largest wine producing region in France, the second largest bottler of sparkling wines and the country's main source of white wine, the Loire is expected to yield around 2.6m hectolitres about the same as last year - of which nearly 75% is VPQRD wine.
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Rhône
Verdict
While many Rhone-watchers remain reticent to make strong pronouncements, signs point to a good (some say great) vintage.
The majority of red grapes brought in were healthy, with intensely-pigmented juice that appears to have good balance and acidity. Whites had minimal rot, and promise to be rich and aromatic.
'We won't really be tasting seriously until January,' said Laurence Ferraud, winemaker at Châteauneuf-du-Pape specialist Domaine du Pegau. 'So it's a bit early to comment. But indications are that it will be a very good, if not exceptional vintage more like 2004 than 2005.'
'The whites are very perfumed, with good balance and acidity, but possibly not as powerful as last year,' she said. 'The reds have great colour, with tannins that are elegant, but not as powerful as usual.'
Michel Chapoutier, who makes wine in both the north and south, was more effusive, particularly about his northern Rhone wines. He said the grapes and vines were in virtually perfect condition, requiring only moderate leaf-thinning to promote air circulation. The Syrah, he says, was particularly thick-skinned, maturing evenly and fully.
The whites - marsanne and viognier (Condrieu) are fresh, with good minerality and power.
'I've never made such good Hermitage wines,' said Chapoutier, 'and to my mind, the Côte Rôtie wines are considerably better than those of '95 and '96, and as good as 1991.'
Weather
One of the coldest winters in the last 20 years with heavier than average snowfall, particularly in the northern Rhone - gave way to a late, rainy, but frost-free spring. Summer arrived abruptly at the beginning of June, and aside from rainstorms in early July, it was a scorcher. This kept the pests away and did not harm the vines.
'July was so hot we were concerned it might be like 2003, which was just not typical,' said Ferraud. 'But August was quite cool, which delayed maturation until September when the weather was beautiful and the grapes caught up.'
Chapoutier reported some coulure (non-pollination, or the grape equivalent of 'failure-to-launch') as a result of sharp dips in temperature just when the early-ripening areas of the Hermitage were flowering. But he said this helped to limit yields naturally, and that looser bunches allowed air to circulate, minimising botrytis.
Production
Picking in the southern Rhone started at the end of August, while in the North, harvest got underway on September 11. The last parcels were picked at the end of October Yields, similar to those of 2005, have been estimated at around 1.7 million hectolitres.
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Burgundy
Verdict
Burgundians are waxing effusive about the whites and keeping their fingers crossed for the reds.
A very tricky season led to serious rot especially for Côte de Beaune Pinot Noir; while there have been reports of up to 50% crop lost (accounting for berries eliminated throughout the season as well as after sorting), most domaines are admitting yields are down by 15-25%.
'It will be hard not to make a good white,' said Thierry Brouin, of Domaine de Lambrays in Morey St Denis, ' but the reds are a different story. They have great potential, but only if the winemakers did severe triage (selection).'
Brouin said he had to cull his red grapes by about 35%, but that those that were left are producing wine that looks to be well-balanced, with good colour and between 13.2-13.5 degrees natural alcohol.
Pierre-Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot corroborated. 'Some reds will be very good, very characterful.'
Gagey said that great weather just before harvest prompted white grapes to ripen twice as quickly as usual, gaining up to two degrees of alcohol per week. 'We finished picking in Chablis before we even started on the Côte d'Or, which is highly unusual.'
Whites from all areas are showing pure fruit and softness but not a lot of acidity. 'To keep the freshness and minerality, judicious winemakers will be cautious in their use of malolactic fermentation,' he said. 'I have no doubt they will be good, but only time will tell if they have what it takes to be great.'
Speaking of Beaujolais, Gagey called it 'an excellent vintage, even compared with 2005,' he said of Morgon and Moulin-"-Vent in particular. 'The wines are fruity and elegant.'
Weather
The Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne described capricious conditions throughout the season, characterised by a long, snowy winter which led to late bud-burst; a dry record heat in June and July; and a cold and rainy August, with a quick return to heat and sun in September.
'August was horrible,' said Brouin, 'There was almost no sun. It was so cold that even though it was humid, rot didn't have a chance to set in.' Things changed dramatically at the beginning of September which brought hot rains, which allowed rot to spread quickly.
Production
While the BIVB predicted a regional volume of 1.5m hl equivalent of 2005 - the results will be less due to the extreme dryness in July, and the severe selection at harvest.
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Champagne
Verdict
Although the Champenois haven't finished tasting the fruit of their labour indeed, in some cases, they haven't even started - winemakers are optimistic about this year's vintage.
'I've only tried the Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier so far,' said Didier Mariotti, the new Cellarmaster at G.H. Mumm, which has about 218 hectares of vineyards, which supply 25 % of its fruit. He said initial concerns about a lack of acidity due to sustained intense heat and sun in the middle of the summer were allayed. 'The Chardonnays are rich but still fresh, not heavy in the mouth,' he said.
The hordons {picking team} will surely remember 2006 for its unusually long harvest, which started in Sézanne on 8 September, and lasted nearly a month - well over the usual period with the last crops brought in from Mailly at the beginning of October.
'We definitely seem to be in a cycle of hotter seasons than 15 years ago,' said Odilon de Varine, winemaker for Gosset,. 'Picking in Sézanne was finished before they even started in the Marne.' Located in Ay, Gosset is family owned, and Champagne's oldest House.
'The Pinot Noir is riper than usual for our house style, but still elegant,' said de Varine, 'and we will add more Chardonnay to keep the freshness.
Weather
As in other areas of France, Champagne experienced a variable summer. A generally hot and sunny June and July for most were marked by repeated hailstorms and thunderstorms in the Côte des Bar as well as to the south and west of Reims. While August was cool and wet, pickers were treated to a clear, sunny September that allowed the grapes to catch up some on ripening.
Production
The Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne confirms that the region, spared the issues of variable ripening in Bordeaux and the rot in Burgundy, brought in its maximum allowed yields of 13 000 kilos per hectare; initial measures indicate an average of 10 degrees of alcohol with seven grammes of acidity per liter.
It's worth noting that the price of grapes increased again, a cost that may be passed on to consumers. This is a reflection of the demand for Champagne itself, sales of which were up 7% in August over the same period in 2005.
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Argentina
Verdict
The results already suggest a superior quality in comparison to the very good 2005 vintage.
Weather
A cool, snowy winter and warm summer days suggests an improved harvest on 2005 say Familia Zuccardi.
Grapes achieved good levels of ripeness across varieties, while retaining first-rate freshness. With the exception of August, in which 46.6mm of rain fell, the second half of 2005 was very dry in Mendoza with what little precipitation there was being very much at the bottom end of the scale between 0 and 9mm.
An unprecedented snowstorm hit Mendoza, the intensity of which had not been witnessed in the last 33 years. Despite this, budding was superb with an outstanding uniformity.
In January temperatures varied between 15ºC with highs reaching over 32ºC. According to those on the ground, this variation favoured the vines which were able to retain increased levels of natural acids, lending balance to the fruit as well as excellent freshness.
Production
Some producers experienced a very long harvest with good ripening, although the long, slow and complete maturation meant many workers spent will have spent weeks in the vineyards. Most producers will have had to reduce yields in larger proportions than usual, to give a higher concentration and better balance.
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Australia
Verdict
The quality of the 2006 harvest overall has been rated as good to excellent, though not outstanding.
'The quality of the harvest will also further enhance Australia's reputation for producing premium-quality wines,' said Peter Bailey, senior analyst at the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation.
Weather
A cool spring and early summer with bursts of intense heat in mid-summer characterised the 2006 growing season, with premature autumn rains threatening the end of an early harvest in many areas.
Spring rains were good in most regions, and encouraged steady growth for the early part of the season. Showers in November and December increased disease pressure in some areas, but reports indicate that the vintage has been relatively disease-free. A different problem was encountered by growers in most regions in January when temperatures soared above 40ºC on several occasions.
Many wineries in the Adelaide Hills were badly affected by spring frosts, which reduced the total intake for some by as much as a quarter. Later in the season, a cool and very rainy April also impacted on red and white grapes in this later-ripening area with the threat of bunch rot and mildews. Red fruit in the Coonawarra was similarly threatened due to early autumn rains.
Western Australia as a whole experienced the coolest December and January on record, with temperatures hovering in the low 20s for days at a time. Consequently when tropical cyclones brought rains in April, much of the red fruit had still only reached around 10º on the Baumé scale of sugar concentration. One degree Baumé is equivalent to 1.8% sugar, a typical red wine grape such as Shiraz is generally harvested at around 12º to 14º Baumé. The Western Australian white wines, however, were less seriously affected.
Winter and spring rainfall was also well above average in the Barossa and Eden Valleys resulting in a low water stress season for the region. A cool start to the growing season meant that budburst, flowering and veraison occurred a week later than normal. However, brief rains in late-February, followed by another period of warm weather, led to very rapid ripening and a quick onset for the Barossa harvest. The ripening rate then dropped off rapidly from late-March onwards, with 60mm of rain falling on 27 and 28 March, and a fall in temperature, which slowed the pace of red grape maturation almost to a standstill. Conditions in the Barossa were favourable for very good colour and tannin development, and good acid and pH levels. Yield levels were average in most varieties, except for Shiraz which was slightly below average.
Tasmania saw one of the earliest vintages on record. The island escaped the extreme January heat seen by most other regions, but a warm spring with good rains accelerated the growing season from the start. A very good quality year for aromatic whites is expected, with reds slightly lighter than 2005.
Production
Early figures may have brought false hope to the over-stocked Australian wine industry, with the suggestion that yields would be around 7% down on last year, but more recent data shows a fall of just 1% in production to 1.9m tonnes just below the record 1.96m tonnes of 2005. Once again, at least 2% to 3% of this year's total grape crop is likely to remain unpicked as fruit prices are uneconomically low at just A$200/tonne in some regions.
The productive Murray Valley and Riverland regions reported a drop in total grape production of 5% and 10% respectively, but in the inland Riverina region, Casella Wines reported a tonnage increase of 20%.
White grape varieties, which were in short supply last year, actually grew by 4% in 2006, while red grape production fell 5%, now making up 54% of total production.
Langhorne Creek producers also reported an early start to the vintage, with one producer picking the first Shiraz on 26 February, and rainfall at the end of vintage after most fruit had been picked. Yield levels here were average overall.
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Verdict
High quality and quantity is the overall verdict. New Zealand Winegrowers reported that the 2006 grape harvest reached 185,000 tonnes, up 30% on last year which had been adversely affected by cooler weather in the flowering period. Although 2005 was a great vintage, some are saying 2006 has potential.
'This year might be even better [than 2005] but it's still early days,' said David Babich of Babich Wines. 'It's shaping up to be a stellar vintage.'
Not only was the vintage one of high quality but thanks to an increase in vineyard area, one of record volume, according to New Zealand Winegrowers chief executive Philip Gregan. Gregan also said the harvest was in line with expectations.
'This is good news for the New Zealand wine industry as we have unfulfilled demand for our premium wine in most export markets,' said Gregan. 'Grape growers and wine makers are pleased with the vintage. The size and quality of the harvest is due to good summer and autumn weather which meant grapes were picked when they were at their best.'
New Zealand winemaker Kim Crawford said the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc of 2006 will be the best yet.
'The Sauvignon Blanc tanks are as a whole as good as we have done from Marlborough,' said Crawford. 'There is good fruit weight, ripeness and flavour at reasonably low alcohol so expect a very good quality wine from here.'
Meanwhile, other white varieties from Malborough are also showing great promise and producers are saying that 2006 may prove to be something of a breakthrough year for Marlborough Pinot Noir.
Weather
Warm weather patterns meant most regions saw higher volumes in comparison with 2005, according to the New Zealand Winegrowers survey.
Production
Figures from the New Zealand Winegrowers vintage survey covering 66% of the country's producers (but an estimated 98.7% of the total production) say the 2006 harvest was 11% up on the country's previous record harvest of 166,000 tonnes in 2004. The rise is attributed to an 18% increase in productive vineyard area since 2004.
The Marlborough region saw volumes increase by 40%, from 81,034 tonnes in 2005 to 113,436 tonnes in 2006.
Hawke's Bay, the country's second largest region after Marlborough, has seen an 18% volume rise from last year. The third biggest region, Gisborne, saw a decrease of 20% from 2005. Together, these three regions account for 90% of the total harvest. Interestingly, the combined production of the smaller regions reached 18,000 tonnes, more than twice the production in these areas in 2005 and well ahead of the total in 2004 of 13,700 tonnes.
In varietal terms, the Sauvignon Blanc harvest was reported to be 53% up on 2005, at 96,686 tonnes. Volumes of Chardonnay were down by 9% from 2005 at 26,944 tonnes. The Riesling harvest rose by 41% over last year to 6,745 tonnes.
Volumes of New Zealand's most popular red varietal and its second largest export - Pinot Noir have risen a huge 51% from 2005 to 22,062 tonnes, which was 10% up on 2004. The Merlot harvest rose by 22%, while Cabernet Sauvignon fell by 12%.
With the country looking to increase production in order to keep up with demand, the record harvest will be most welcome.
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South Africa
Verdict
On the whole, better than last year, is the verdict coming from producers. The South African wine harvest was smaller than had been forecast before harvesting began but nevertheless came in 6% up on 2005, according Wines of South Africa (WOSA). Producers are upbeat regarding the quality of the wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc.
'The best year since 2002 for Sauvignon Blanc', said Ernst le Roux, head of grape and wine buying at Distell, which markets wines from all over South Africa. 'Chardonnay benefited from the cold winter which allowed the vines to go into proper dormancy and our wines are showing extremely well. Reds have come in with excellent colour and flavours and should produce wines with great maturation potential. Shiraz is another absolutely stand-out varietal this year.'
Eleonor Visser, winemaker at Winecorp, singled out the Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc for praise. Visser said that warm, even temperatures have produced 'outstanding results in the white grape vineyards'.
'The yields this year are not enormous, but what we've got is very good,' she said.
Riaan Marais, at Southern Cape Vineyards (SCV) in the Little Karoo region, said the grapes this year were 'exceptionally healthy and of a high quality'. All this despite drought affecting around 10% of grapes in the region.
Marco Ventrella at Graham Beck Wines, predicts 'awesome' Breede River Valley Chardonnay and 'fantastic' Cabernets across the board, with the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon standing out.
In the Robertson region, Willem Botha, viticultural consultant for VinPro producers' organisation said that budbreak had been earlier than normal for Chardonnay, some Colombard and Chenin Blanc, while there was also some uneven budding in Shiraz and some Sauvignon Blanc resulting in lower crop levels. He added, however, that the red cultivars, with the exception of the Pinotage, looked normal.
'The 2005 harvest was difficult with diseased grapes and other factors, yet some good wines resulted,' he said. 'So I'm very optimistic about 2006, particularly for reds.'
Weather
Winemakers report that dry winds may have actually had a positive impact on quality.
'Although the winds proved dehydrating, most of our vineyards, even the dryland blocks, did not suffer the drought stress of 2005 because of the moderate climatic conditions and favourable soil/water levels at the beginning of the growing season,' says Le Roux. 'In fact, the summer winds actually had a positive effect of reducing grape size, resulting in excellent skin to berry ratios and giving rise to excellent concentration of flavours across both red and white varietals.'
Production
The decrease from earlier estimates in November and January, when a harvest 8% to 10% higher than 2005 was being forecast, was primarily attributed to dry winds in the Western Cape as well as abnormally high temperatures in the latter part of January. Volumes fell in regions such as Malmesbury, Stellenbosch and Paarl because of the dry conditions. Water was also in short supply in certain parts of the Little Karoo, Olifants River and Worcester regions.
WOSA estimates the total 2006 grape harvest to be 1.2m tonnes, with wine volumes reaching 960m litres, including juice and concentrate for non-alcoholic purposes, rebate and distilling wine.
WOSA is also forecasting a reduction in stock levels at producer and private cellars from 308.4m litres on 31 December 2005 to 232.6m on 31 December 2006.
According to Le Roux, the oversupply of red wines is being addressed, with excess reds being used to produce Rosé, as this is among the fastest growing categories in the local market, as well as in the UK and the US, while some red wine production is being distilled.
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Bordeaux
Verdict
The holidays can't come too soon for the Bordelais this year, for the most assiduous winemakers will have worked non-stop for the last six months to stay one step ahead of the trouble that nature wrought this year.
Producers, negociants and merchants said that terroir and skill will count for a lot. Only top properties with the resources to select out any unripe, rotten or burst grapes will be able to make wines worthy of their classifications.
'I am a bit disappointed with this year's harvest,' said Jean-Christophe Mau, who runs the fine wine division for negociants Yvon Mau as well as family-owned Chateaux Preuillac and Brown.
'I had to discard a lot of rotten grapes, and even among the good parcels, there was a lot of variability. This is a year when there will be a large gap in quality between the good and the less good.'
Mau added that he was likely to make 15-20% more of his second wines bringing the ratio of first to second wine to about 50/50 (it is usually about 65/35).
One of the issues Bordeaux faces this year will be a higher-than-usual level of acidity.
Philip Dhalluin, winemaker for Baron Philippe de Rothschild, also noted a great deal of variability among parcels depending on their age and exposure, but is confident that the best ones will produce 'rich wines with plenty of structure and excellent acidity. Two thousand and six will be a very good year for Châteaux Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon et d'Armailhac.'
Over in Sauternes, Chateau Coutet winemaker and co-owner Philippe Baly is predicting that his six passes between September 13 and October 19 - through the 38.5ha vineyard will have paid off. He predicted an exceptional wine will be made from grapes that were very ripe and uniformly affected by botrytis.
Weather
Marked by what the Bordeaux wine trade body (CIVB) called 'yo-yo weather', 2006 started with a long, cold winter. This was followed by a searingly hot and dry (though not as dry as 2005) mid-summer, and a cool, damp August that allowed unwelcome rot to set in. Torrential downpours in some areas at the beginning of September made matters worse, though those who exercised patience were rewarded with more mature grapes.
Production
Despite the above-mentioned issues affecting production in the fine wine areas of Bordeaux, yields across the entire region are expected to be about the same as last year - about 7.8m hectoliters.
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