Run by the pragmatic, laid-back and pretension-averse Albéric Bichot from his house amid the vines of Pommard, the wines of this mid-sized négociant have been rapidly improving over the last decade. Here are four to look out for.
La Moutonne, Chablis Grand Cru, Long-Depaquit 2013
From just 2.24 ha in Vaudésir plus a 0.11 ha nibble of Les Preuses, this lieux-dit monopole among the Grand Crus has only had three owners in five centuries. The 2013 is a soft, graceful Chablis with scents of linden blossom and vine flower and a deep, structured, mellow yet vivid flavour: ample and mouthfilling, yet poised too. I like Grand Crus to have a little breadth to them, to take them beyond Premier Cru pungency and stony asperity; this does.
Secrét de Famille Pinot Noir, Bourgogne Rouge, Bichot 2013
A parcel selection with lower yields and more fastidious handling than for most regional red Burgundy. Clear and light in colour, with a pungent blast of raspberry and cherry dominating the aromas; pure, fresh, long and tapered flavours, ideal for serving lightly chilled in order to point up the subdued but purposeful tannins. Delicious and refreshing.
Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens, Domaine du Pavillon 2013
Deep red, with intriguing scents of wax, incense and metal shavings. A cascade of plums on the palate: chewy and exuberant. Pure Pommard.
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Malconsorts, Domaine du Clos Frantin 2013
Some evident oak but a gale of orchard blossom beneath. Vivid, pure and resonant flavours with plenty of sinew and sap: a classical mid-term mouthful from the village we all dream of.