David Franz, Long Gully Road Ancient Vine Semillon, Barossa Valley, 2015

For David Franz (son of iconic winemaker Peter Lehmann), a summer evening without a cool glass of Semillon is as bad as breakfast without Vegemite. When it’s this good, it makes sense. Ancient vines and shrewd winemaking give a subtle, brooding style that unfurls on the palate with vibrant, spicy, limey intensity. Tremendous.

David Franz might be the son of Barossa legend Peter Lehmann, but his wines are very much his own - try his Grenache from 90 year old bush vines too. Long Gully Road, on loose, sandy loam over marble, might be the oldest Semillon vineyard in the world (129 years and counting), and has given this wine amazing purity, texture and concentration. Franz says the grapes are handpicked early at cool temperatures, then whole bunches are basket pressed before the wine spends six months on its lees. The balance of ripe citrus fruit and mouthwatering acidity is perfect, supported by lipsmacking texture and wild grassy tones. Just 3,180 bottles were made this vintage, and most are on allocation – but if you can find one, snap it up!