Unico Zelo, The River, Riverland, South Australia, 2017

Nero d'Avola hails from hot, arid Sicily, and finds the same climes in South Australia's Riverland - not usually championed as a region for high-quality wines. But this is a cracker, with very approachable, sappy fruit, seeing five days on its skins and no oak to maximise its savoury berry vibrancy. Succulent, lifted and with fresh acidity, this is a real quaffer. Nice packaging too.