Domaine Quillot, Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Jura, 2012

Milky, doughy and nutty, with baked apple and spices. This is a deliciously zingy example of Chardonnay from Jura, where the usual rules of winemaking don't seem to apply. There is some bretty spice and oxidised richness on the mid-palate, adding complex notes that will work well with soft cheeses such as Vacherin Mont d'Or. This is a brave move by Lidl, but the more adventurous will be rewarded with a unique, food friendly wine for astonishingly good value.