Costers del Priorat, Clos Cypres, Priorat, Catalonia, 2013

Winemaker José Mas Barberà joined Costers del Priorat (founded 2002) in 2007. He was drawn to Priorat as a region where he could express the soil in the wine. Clos Cypres, 100% Cariñena from a vineyard in Bellmunt planted in 1939, is fermented in 300-litre amphorae and 500-litre old oak, before ageing in barrique. Mas is searching for freshness ‘I believe in acidity, so I am the first to pick in my village’; and for subtlety ‘I ferment with stems, but I handle the wine like an infusion’. Look out for Clos Cypres Cariñena from its vineyard in Torroja, coming next year. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW: Delicate in nose, peculiar, with garrigue tones and floral hints. Balanced and open palate. Long, suave finish. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Glorious blueberry aroma with a wild Cariñena typicity. Finishes with fine grip of tannin; very balanced with a dark, savoury undertone. Pierre Mansour: Deep bright colour, clean, pure nose, wonderful cherry notes with a wild herby aroma, savoury too; youthful. It has a tangy palate, intense cherry fruit, well-controlled and totally individual.