Tasting notes

With its slogan 'the wine of kings, the king of wines', Château Gruaud Larose revels in its celebrated Second Growth status in the compact, cru classé-concentrated appellation of Saint-Julien, the smallest of the Médoc's famous regions. Gruaud Larose's 82 hectares of vines add up to almost 10% of all Saint-Julien's vineyards. On the occasion of ProWein, Germany's annual wine and spirits trade fair, Gruaud Larose general manager David Launay toured three cities between 18th and 20th March - at Sankt Moritz Restaurant in Berlin, Haerlin Restaurant in Hamburg and Wine Live in Düsseldorf - to hold vertical tastings for the German wine experts. Just over a week later, at Château Gruaud Larose on Wednesday 31st March during en primeur week, more vintages were served at another vertical tasting dinner, including a 1962 double magnum and a 1918 magnum. All tastings combined, 17 vintages stretching back to the end of trench warfare in Europe are featured. By Panos Kakaviatos

Recommended wines

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1982

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Served in Germany, this wine shows impressive concentration with polish and pure expressions of liquorice, cassis and plum along with some cedar-like polish. Still very youthful in profile, the wine has a smoothly textured full body that may not impart the beguiling aromatics of the 1983, but certainly has more stuffing on the palate and is built for a longer life. It is drinking very well today. (19 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1986

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The heaviest of all the '80s vintages, with dark red fruit aromas and flavours, the palate exhibits foreboding tannic power with a mix of cedar and creosote on the palate. Compared to a tasting five years ago, it has budged hardly an inch. With time in glass, it opens up with liquorice, leather and dark chocolate aspects, but it has a long life ahead. (19 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1990

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Deep, black cherry on the nose showing truffle and some fresh orange rind notes on the palate. Similar in profile to the 1989, perhaps with a bit more barnyard, this is a very good wine from an excellent vintage. (16.5 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1996

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Cherry and spice on the visibly more youthful nose, with a hint of earthy musk. The palate is rich and flavourful. Neither as austere (nor as deeply impressive) as the 1986, this wine is sweeter, and exudes balance and polish, with fine sap on the palate and a very smooth finish. An archetype for Saint-Julien. (18 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2000

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A very youthful wine, almost like a barrel sample, it has not budged much either in the last five years. One taster in Germany compared it to the 1986, but the 2000 is sweeter, smoother and more accessible albeit still very young and will no doubt be more pleasurable to drink later. (17.5 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2003

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Starts off with rich blackberry notes, which introduce a juicy and opulent palate of chocolate notes. Although showing just a hint of dryness, the wine does not display the over-ripe aspects of the vintage. It is seriously delicious and smooth, with sumptuous texture and a tasty finish. (17.5 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1989

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Sweet cherry and cassis aromas with dewy floral accents. The palate was more medium than full-bodied, certainly pretty with ripe juicy red cherry mingled with tobacco leaf. Very pleasurable but overshadowed by the 1982 concentration), the 1983 (aromatics) and the 1986 (gravitas). Still, a lovely vintage, drinking well today. (16.5 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1962

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A lovely clear colour, cigar box aromas and especially pencil lead. A palate that was finely grained, yet plump, almost sweet, with hints of underbrush and truffle, and a lingering if slightly iron-rustic finish. Great pleasure that invited repeated servings. (17 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009

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(barrel sample) Tasted at the château on 31st March but also blind along with other Médoc wines on 1st April. Cedar and chocolate on the nose precede freshness and body, with fine tannic grain on the palate: ripe tannin, good structure and sap, with glycerine, but also a pleasing, slightly bitter finish. (17 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1983

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Next to the... 1918, perhaps the most pleasingly perfumed of all the wines tasted, the 1983 imparted incense, camphor, sweet cherry, plum and spice. The palate featured an almost apricot freshness and a texture of completely integrated tannin. Noticeably less concentrated than the 1982 or 1986, but a pleasure to drink now. (17 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1975

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Iodine freshness with dusty tannins. Some cherry notes and hints of musk and spice. A somewhat fragile wine, certainly at its peak %u2013 and tasting better from magnum than regular format bottles which show some fatigue. Served at the beginning of the German dinners because it would have been hard to appreciate after the more tannic and powerful recent vintages, David Launay explained. (15.5 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2007

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Only 28% of the harvest went into this first wine. For the vintage indeed a fine sense of concentration, with a primary nose also showing some oak-derived flavours. There is a smooth aspect to this wine, but it does not seem to have the depth or length of better vintages. (14.5 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1995

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A leathery nose with sweet, dark fruit. Some used the word 'slutty' to describe the expressive and tasty palate, which is not as smooth or as polished as the 1996. But it does have power and character. (16 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1918

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Not a great war-ending year like 1945 but the nose was astonishing, with pot-pourri, tobacco and green tea leaf transcending any notions of tired, dead earth which one would expect from a 92-year-old bottle. The palate was cohesive, a bit salty and with a certain tea-like bitterness that became more pronounced on the finish. Far less full-bodied than the 1962, but no one trying this would have guessed its age. (16 points)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1997

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Strong performance for an average vintage, showing off cherry and cassis as well as tobacco aromas and flavours. The vinous palate also exudes a certain amount of vivacity and a smooth finish. Lacks the depth of better vintages but very nicely done. Drinking well. (15.5 points)

Sarget de Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien 2005

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This second wine overshadowed other second wines served at the château which were sometimes thin or short on the finish. Showing excellent focus and corpulence, this is a second wine to seek because of a probable excellent price/quality ratio. (14-plus points)

Larose de Gruaud, Saint-Julien 2000

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This wine represents a special selection of the second wine Sarget de Gruaud Larose and features a lovely new label. It is sweet, with a fresh mint nose - a bit tobacco leaf-like - and bright red fruit characteristics. The palate has a slight rawness to it, and a hint of roasted red pepper. A pleasure to drink, but at its peak. (14-plus points)

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