The six wines of the Reserve and Bin Cabernet flight have a little extra depth but still offer value for money particularly when compared to the prices paid for long-lived Old World wines. Next to the excellent, pale tawny, truffle-nosed 1968 Bin 51, the 1976 Bin 63 lacked a little freshness and intensity on the finish, while the 1981 Bin 71, with its classic notes of cedar, cigar box, sweet cassis, was poised and charming, for drinking now (2010). The more restrained 1992 Reserve was elegant with great oak integration and fresh and juicy fruit, while the younger, poised 2004 Reserve needs more time, though shows great potential, with its opulent, modern ripe black fruit and fleshy oak tannins.

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Written by Decanter