10 native Italian varieties worth seeking out

Coda di Volpe

Potentially one of Italy’s greatest white wines, though Fiano, Greco and Falanghina, also from Campania, are better known. Grown mainly in Irpinia, Beneventano and Vesuvio, it yields very mineral wines (Irpinia, Vesuvio) or textured and honeyed ones (Beneventano). The name Coda di Volpe is due to the grape cluster – big and bushy like the tail of a fox. Of course, this being Italy, there is a Coda di Volpe Rosso too.

Try: Vadiaperti, Irpinia, Campania 2007 (pictured)

Intensely mineral, with hints of menthol, fresh herbs and white stone fruit. Ages amazingly well. 18pts/20
Price: £10 Exel, Slurp
Drink: 2012–2020
Alc: 13.5%

Try: La Rivolta, Taburno, Campania 2008

Lemon, iodine and herbal, finishing long and complex. Firm acidity and a welcome note of austerity. 18pts/20
Price: £10 London Wine Deliveries
Drink: 2012–2018
Alc: 13%