Coonawarra and Margaret River Cabernets
Katnook Estate, Odyssey, Coonawarra 2005
Decanter average score: 18.75pts/20 (95+/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: RJ 18.5 PM 18.5 AR 19
Wayne Stehbens has been a mainstay of Coonawarra since 1979, transforming the original property of the region’s founder, John Riddoch. In recent years, diligent vineyard management and ongoing trials in trellising, leaf plucking, canopy management, soil surveys and yield monitoring have transported Katnook’s Cabernets to new heights of more even ripeness, avoiding the green and vegetal characters of the past. Odyssey is Katnook’s most powerful expression of Coonawarra’s signature variety, built for the long haul and bolstered by more than three years in new French and American oak barrels, with some parcels double oaked.
RJ Delicate palate of soft vanilla and bright berries; seems very youthful. Very well made wine by some class winemakers – essence of Coonawarra. Amazing wine dripping in red meat juice, berries and beautiful oak.
PM Lovely, smoky, developed nose, mellow, complex, spicy/leathery. Delicious fruit has evolved beautifully in bottle; generous, ripe tannins, very, very long. Superb. At its peak but will last.
AR Fabulous nose, slightly drying dark fruits with savoury, rich, umami-like characters on the palate – like soy and balsam. Very complex palate that is just slightly drying on the finish, but quite gorgeous now.
Price £60–£61 Berkmann Wine Cellars, Islington Wines, Nickolls & Perks
Judges: Roger Jones, Pierre Mansour and Anthony Rose