Volnay premier cru 2010: panel tasting results

Volnay 2010, Domaine des Comtes Lafon Santenots du Milieu
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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Santenots-du-Milieu
Decanter average score: 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts)
Individual judge’s scores: Michael Schuster 18.5 Steven Spurrier 18.5 Sebastian Thomas 18.5
Dominique Lafon’s brilliance as a maker of white wines is universally accepted, but the estate’s reds are also first-rate. He owns almost four hectares in the finest sector of Santenots – Santenots-du-Milieu. Selection at harvest is severe, and only grapes from the oldest vines are used for this bottling. The fruit is all destemmed and then vinified with some whole berries, aimed at slowing down the fermentation. The wine is aged in one-third new oak for at least 20 months, and bottled without filtration.
Michael Schuster An abundance of sweetly ripe flavour behind firm tannins. Long, generous, complex and complete – a full-bodied, dense, long-term Volnay of great scope, with splendid length.
Steven Spurrier Huge depth of concentration in the best sense: just purity of fruit, rich, almost luscious in this vintage. A great wine, more supple and rich than expected from Volnay, but a great, spicy Volnay all the same.
Sebastian Thomas A good amount of oak and generous fruit intensity, with the ripe roundness typical of the appellation. Balanced tannins drive through to a long, fine finish. Will be lovely in time – no rush whatsoever.
Price £68–£94 (2009) Christopher Keiller, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Four Walls Wine, L’Assemblage, In Vino Veritas
Drink 2014–2035
Alc 13.5%