Barolo 2009: panel tasting results
Virna, Cannubi Boschis, Barolo
Decanter average score: 19pts/20 (96/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Paolo Basso 19 Ian D’Agata 19 Michael Garner 19
Virna Borgogno graduated in 1991 from the oenology school in Alba, and only 10 years later founded the estate that she runs with sister Ivana and her husband, Giovanni Abrigo, a producer in Barbaresco. Their Cannubi Boschis vines are roughly 45 years old, and the Barolo is made with short 10-day macerations on the skins at relatively high temperatures (30°C is common). The classic Barolo is instead a blend of two vineyards from Novello (Merli and Sottocastello), which means it is a more rigid, austere wine with good ageworthiness. This is an up-and coming estate that has a tasting room right in the Barolo town centre, so it’s easy to visit.
Paolo Basso Balsamic notes of eucalyptus, anise, vanilla and sweet spices.
Rich, full bodied, with an expressive and savoury deep character. Very long persistency.
Ian D’Agata Clean, fresh, but also rich and ripe red fruit. Real density and long, with silky tannins. Great balance.
Michael Garner Intriguing nose of prunes, chocolate and cinnamon. Ripe, fleshy and juicy, but with good balance. Understated structure with hugely impressive length and definition.
Price £36 Colombier Vins Fins