Barolo 2009: panel tasting results
Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio, Castiglione Falletto
Decanter average score: 18.75pts/20 (95+/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Paolo Basso 18.5 Ian D’Agata 19 Michael Garner 19
Sobrero is a famous name in Castiglione Falletto as Violante Sobrero made some of the area’s best wines in the 1960s and 1970s, but this estate was founded by Francesco Sobrero in 1940. Today, third-generation Flavio Sobrero makes excellent, traditional wines. The Ciabot Tanasio Barolo is a blend of three vineyards, with average age ranging from five-year-old, recently replanted, Nebbiolo vines to 50-year-old vines located in a small section. The Pernanno is made from 60-year-old vines. Fifteen to 18 days of maceration at temperatures nearing 30°C give these wines plenty of air, for they are characterised by highly reductive, even animal, notes at first.
Paolo Basso Herbs, cinnamon, ripe red cherries. Great personality with a full-bodied character and ripe, well-integrated tannins and a persistent finish.
Ian D’Agata Flinty and mineral on the nose, shows a nice red fruit-acid-tannin balance; a hint of game at the back for added complexity. Decant two hours ahead.
Michael Garner Slightly closed with notes of menthol, camphor and liquorice. Round and full with good texture. Good development of ripe fruit flavours backed up with decent acidity and fine tannins. Spreading finish with good aromatic development.
Price £28–£39 Cozzi & Boffa Wines, Swig