Brunello di Montalcino 2009: panel tasting results
Decanter average score: 18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Ian D’Agata 18.5 Michael Garner 18.5 Emily O’Hare 18.5
La Fuga’s Brunello has improved immeasurably over the past 10 years. The smallest of the properties belonging to Tenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, La Fuga is owned by sisters Fabia Cornaro dell’Acqua and Giovanna Cornaro Folonari, who is the wife of Ambrogio Folonari and mother of Giovanni. It was originally part of the Camigliano estate and was sold to the Folonari family in 2002. Encouragingly, the estate’s wines seem to be increasingly less about density and vanillin oak: Sangiovese’s liquorice, sour red berry and flinty fruit aromas and flavours are now allowed to shine through, as in the case of this beauty.
Ian D’Agata Clean, pure and high toned, with kirsch and strawberry jam notes lifted by bright acids. A sweeter, sexier style of Brunello with riper aromas and flavours.
Michael Garner Youthful, deep garnet. Attractive, ripe and scented nose of blackberry and aniseed. Big, ripe and opulent palate with huge, deep fruit flavours. Crème brûlée and spice notes to finish.
Emily O’Hare Very pretty and dainty. Excellent quality, showing fresh acidity and amazing fruit.
Price: £32 Swig