Burgundy 2009 en primeur - top wines - Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais

The best advice I can give to any buyer of Burgundy this vintage is 'first choose your wine merchant' (writes Margaret Rand). Some merchants have sourced wines brilliantly and chosen with great perspicacity (i.e. I like their wines). Others have more mixed offerings. Of those I have tasted so far, Goedhuis, Berry Bros & Rudd and, from the third day’s tastings, Flint are good hunting grounds. Bordeaux Index was also good but had no Mâconnais or Côte Chalonnaise. Flint are new arrivals and have a mixture of established names and new growers of great verve and talent. They say that they favour classic balance in Burgundy: acidity and minerality rather than opulence and oak. That’s my preference too. The very creamy, cushiony whites that some producers have made this year (it’s mostly about picking dates) are not, to my mind, the point of BurgundyCôte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais. There are some good reds at Corney & Barrow and Lay & Wheeler. Good but seldom compelling: the majority are pretty, charming, seductive, but not great. Some are quite lightweight: it was a large vintage, as Bruno Pepin of Louis Latour pointed out. Some growers, said Etienne Grivot of Domaine Jean Grivot, ‘confused over-maturity with density': the result could be wines with 14%-plus alcohol. Not chez Grivot, however: '‘I want precision, minerality, feminity and about 13% alcohol'.

Wine name Producer Country Region Vintage

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot, Vieux Chateau, Montagny 1er Cru

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot [Pommard] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Faiveley, Champs Fulliots, Monthelie 1er Cru

Maison Joseph Faiveley [Francois/Nuits-Saint-Georges] N/A N/A 2009

Domaine Laurent Mouton, Grand Pretans, Givry 1er Cru

Domaine Laurent Mouton France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Jean-Pierre Charton, Naugues, Mercurey 1er Cru

jean-Pierre Charton [Mercurey] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Jean-Pierre Charton, Clos du Roi, Mercurey 1er Cru

jean-Pierre Charton [Mercurey] France Burgundy 2009

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon, Clos du Four, Macon-Milly-Lamartine

Domaine des Comtes Lafon [Meursault] N/A N/A 2009

Dominique Lafon, Saint-Veran

Domaine des Comtes Lafon [Meursault] France Burgundy 2009

Olivier Merlin, Clos des Quarts, Pouilly-Fuisse

Domaine Olivier Merlin [La Roche Vineuse] France Burgundy 2009

Bret Brothers, En Carementrant, Pouilly-Fuisse

Bret Brothers France Burgundy 2009

Jean Rijckaert, La Roche, Vieilles Vignes, Pouilly-Fuisse

N/A France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Clos des Rocs, Macon Loche

Domaine du Clos des Rocs France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Chataigneraie-Laborier, La Roche, Pouilly-Fuisse

Domaine Morat/Chataigneraie-Laborier France Burgundy 2009

Domaine A et P de Villaine, Les Saint-Jacques, Rully

Aubert & Palema de Villaine [Bouzeron] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine A et P de Villaine, Les Montots, Mercurey

Aubert & Palema de Villaine [Bouzeron] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine A et P de Villaine, Bouzeron

Aubert & Palema de Villaine [Bouzeron] France Burgundy 2009