Burgundy 2009 en primeur - top wines - Côte d'Or

The wines have not been difficult to taste (writes Stephen Brook). Acidity is moderate in the white wines, and the red wines, while quite tannic, are rarely hard or extracted. David Roberts of Goedhuis & Co hit the nail on the head when he told me: 'This is a year when climate often overrides terroir … in 2009 the sheer ripeness of the grapes dominated.' My view is that this is not a great vintage for white Burgundy, but many wines will give great pleasure. They are certainly ripe, but then many are too ripe, and lack acidity. They are lush and juicy and packed with fruit, and many consumers will not mind that they lack the mineral edge that singles out great Burgundy as a supreme expression of Chardonnay. I like my Burgundies to taste like Burgundy, and the raciness and zest that made the 2007 and 2008 whites so irresistible are in short supply in 2009. The reds, though, are an almost total success. Guillaume d'Angerville of Volnay reflected that the only potential pitfall in 2009 was picking too late, but even habitual late-pickers, such as Chantal Remy, made balanced wines. Tannin management seems more of a problem. The lushness of many of these wines disguises their high tannin content, and there are signs of over-extraction at some estates. Yet the great majority of wines are rich and full-bodied and well structured. As with the whites, their sheer ripeness makes the distinctiveness of each cru not very apparent at this stage, but that will emerge in time. There are inevitable differences in style, with some growers opting for purity of fruit and finesse, others letting rip with power, opulence, and tannins. Both styles can be highly successful. The whites need to be selected with care, but the reds can be bought with confidence. Buy with assurance, if the prices are not too daunting, and drink in the medium term, and, for the top wines, over the long haul.

Wine name Producer Country Region Vintage

Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Le Montrachet

Joseph Drouhin [Beaune] France Burgundy 2009

Jean-Noel Gagnard, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet

Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard [Chassagne-Montrachet] France Burgundy 2009

Colin-Deleger, Grand Cru, Chevalier-Montrachet

Domaine Michel Colin (formerly Colin-Deleger) France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Lamarche, Grand Cru, La Grande Rue

Domaine Francois Lamarche [Vosne-Romanee] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Meo-Camuzet, Aux Brulees, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru

Domaine Meo-Camuzet [Vosne-Romanee] France Burgundy 2009

Sylvain Cathiard, les Malconsorts, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru

Sylvain Cathiard [Vosne-Romanee] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Bruno Clair, Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

Domaine Bruno Clair [Marsannay] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Robert Chevillon, les Vaucrains, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

Domaine Robert Chevillon [Nuits-Saint-Georges] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Jean Chartron, Clos du Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

Domaine Jean Chartron [Puligny-Montrachet] France Burgundy 2009

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne

Bouchard Pere & Fils [Les Duresses/Beaune] France Burgundy 2009

Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet, la Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

Domaine du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet [Clos du chateau] France Burgundy 2009

Thibault Liger-Belair, les Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

Domaine du Vicomte Liger-Belair France Burgundy 2009

Domaine des Perdrix, Aux Perdrix, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

Domaine des Perdrix [B et C Devillard/Mercurey] France Burgundy 2009

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Clos des Chenes, Volnay 1er Cru

Bouchard Pere & Fils [Les Duresses/Beaune] France Burgundy 2009

Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet

Joseph Drouhin [Beaune] France Burgundy 2009

Francois Mikulski, Genevrieres, Meursault 1er Cru

N/A France Burgundy 2009

Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Griotte-Chambertin

Joseph Drouhin [Beaune] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Clos des Ducs, Volnay 1er Cru

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville [Volnay] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine de l'Arlot, Clos des Forets Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

Domaine de l'Arlot [Premeaux-Prissey] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Pierre Damoy, Grand Cru, Chambertin-Clos de Beze

Domaine Pierre Damoy [Gevrey-Chambertin] France Burgundy 2009

Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Grand Cru, Clos de la Roche

Lucie et Auguste Lignier France Burgundy 2009

Etienne Sauzet, Les Champs Canet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

Domaine Etienne Sauzet [Puligny-Montrachet] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Grand Cru, Criots-Batard-Montrachet

Domaine Richard Fontaine-Gagnard [Chassagne-Montrachet] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine des Varoilles, La Romanee, Monopole, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

Domaine des Varoilles France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Simon Bize, les Vergelesses, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru

Domaine Simon Bize et Fils [Savigny-les-Beaune] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Trapet, Grand Cru, Latricieres-Chambertin

Domaine Trapet Pere et Fils [Jean et Jean-Louis/Gevrey-Chambertin] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Remi Jobard, Les Poruzots-Dessus, Meursault 1er Cru

Domaine Remi Jobard [&Charles/Meursault] France Burgundy 2009

Henri Germain, Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru

Domaine Henri Germain et Fils [Meursault] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Michel Gros, Clos des Reas, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru

Domaine Michel Gros [Vosne-Romanee] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin

Jacky Confuron-Cotetidot [Vosne-Romanee] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Anne Gros, 'Grand Maupertui' Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot

Domaine Anne Gros [Vosne-Romanee] France Burgundy 2009